We all know the so-called pinstripes and the pinstripe! The exceptional cliché look of Wall Street investment bankers, mafiosi in films and of course The Great Gatsby. But also the classic suit of your father or grandfather, or you have one yourself. There is a difference, however, important or not, but 'details matter'. I would be happy to explain the subtle difference between the pinstripe and the pinstripe.

The classic striped suit is generally regarded as the business suit par excellence. It is recognised as the outfit of the power-dresser, especially in the double breasted version. It is therefore the quickest and easiest way to look top-notch right away.

Stripes come in all shapes, sizes and colours. The thickness, however, is what determines the name and we will discuss that here.

PINSTRIPES

Probably the most common and well-known is the pinstripe. This is a single thin stripe that gives the impression of a small short needle stitch. A single twisted thread is used to create the stripe. The distance between the stripes can vary.

The pinstripe is a fine stripe, but very pronounced. According to Alan Flusser in his well-known book 'Dressing the Man', pinstripes are "fine stripes in the width of a needle resluting in the use of white, grey or other colour, or other yarns, in a twisted sequence of worsted..."
And Hardy Amies writes in his lexicon 'ABC of Men's Fashion' that pinstripes are actually "a series of dots". Both are excellent descriptions, but they do not contradict each other.

So pinstripes are often woven into the cloth separately from the background weave on a Dobby loom, contrary to a simple part of the background weave.
It's added to the cloth in on top of the base colour. So the pinstripe is more defined and keeps it from blurring into the cloth. A nice variation on the pinstripe is the bead stripe, also called a beaded pinstripe or a rain pinstripe, which looks like a line of tiny beads spaced apart'.

References to the 'pinstripe' can be found in Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales', where the 'Sergeant at the Law' is described as wearing
"a homely parti-coloured coat girt with a silken belt of pin-stripe stuff". Pinstripes have been found in men's clothing since bein of the 19th century.
They were used by the London banks to identify their employees. Each bank had its stripes, and the space between the stripes indicated their rank or function. Originally, only the trousers were striped, but when the custom was adopted in America in the 20th century, they were also used in the jackets. And so the pinstripe suit was born!

CRIME TRIPS

A pinstripe is traditionally woven from about 2 to 5 threads wide and therefore resembles the stripe that a tailor puts on the fabric with his tailor's chalk. Hence the name. Pinstripes are mixed in with the other yarns, which makes the effect less distinctive.
It all looks a bit more vague than the pronounced pinstripe. Hardy Amies describes the difference as "'pin' stripes ... look very 'set' when compared to 'chalk' stripes, the outlines of which are blurred and thus blend with the background." And this is suddenly the best description.

The pinstripe is wrongly attributed the reputation of corporate conformity. It is true that it is synonymous with the bankers and other liberal professions such as notaries, lawyers, etc., but its roots run deeper as the uniformity found among the middle classes in the late 18^the and beginning 19^the century.

Named for its soft look, the pinstripe was adopted by modern white-collar workers working in the cities from around 1910 onwards and thus became the uniform of the big heavy business. Originally, it was even only allowed in British and American companies to have the stripe wider than 1 inch, for senior management. Later it was adopted by the Mafia to make it clear that they were above the ordinary mortal.

HOW DO WE WEAR THESE STRIPES?

A pinstripe or pinstripe suit can and will certainly spice up your wardrobe.

• If you're going for the traditional British look, opt for the darkest variety you can find: A deep ink blue, a 'grey as coal', and combine it with a plain white shirt, and a bright tie to create contrast. In any case, it will make a powerful statement.
• The version with centre button, 2 buttons, is modern, but if you want to go for the cutting edge of tradition, choose a double breasted suit.
• If you prefer it more relaxed, go for the less pronounced pinstripe.
• As a general rule, we can say that these stripes are only worn as a costume. But casual is becoming more and more acceptable.
• Be especially careful with stripes in the tie or shirt. You don't want to become a signboard for all the possible stripes on the market. And if the stripes have the same width, it will all go wrong. But that goes without saying.
• With a pinstripe, you always wear a tie.
• The most classic look is in a snow-white shirt and dark or bright tie. Then you are on the safe side anyway.
• Leave patterned shirts for what they are. They certainly don't belong on a striped suit!
• Keep it simple with accessories. Pochette or tie pin? Certainly not both at the same time!
• But who am I? And aren't rules there to be challenged?

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy