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The Regimental or Striped Tie

Also called rep tie or club tie. There is a clear difference between English and American stripes, namely the direction. You may wonder why and how this is so. Well, we are happy to explain it to you.

The well-known British 'regimental tie' has the stripes at an angle from high left, but down right. As they say over the pond: 'from the heart'. It is also the direction of the British and international military salute. So it originated at the turn of the 20th century. More specifically, 'from heart to sword', as a nod to the origins of combat, war. For those who still wonder where the word 'Regimental' comes from? The colours and patterns of the ties and ribbons have been derived from uniforms, flags and coats of arms since the First World War. And thus also regiments. The regimental tie is also known as the 'club tie'. In this way, the wearer communicates his membership of a gentleman's club.

Royal influence

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Prince of Wales, before briefly becoming King, visited America on an official state visit.
Without realising it himself, he changed the customs of how and by whom the striped ties were worn.
Like many veterans, he wore his regimental tie, striped blue and red from the Grenadier Guards.
The Americans, fascinated by his style and dress, were particularly fascinated by that tie, which was then much discussed in the press.
in the press. After his visit, they became immensely popular.

The Democratisation of an Icon

Brooks Brothers thought that this style should be available to everyone. To Americanise it, as it were.
They took away the meaning of the tie by making the stripes the opposite way round: Namely from right to left!
This act of fashionRebellion was the birth of a style icon.

Since then, the striped tie has been the favourite of everyone from the US President to pop stars.
The fans are as diverse as the variations of the tie itself. Ranging from the military, to businessmen, to the famous Ivy-League universities.

Hence, American ties are in the opposite direction. A slightly more playful explanation is that the English ties follow the direction of the face, while the American ones point to the crotch.

After schools and 'social clubs' followed this trend, the look also became very fashionable and popular among ordinary citizens. Wearing accessories in certain colours became a way of exuding social status. In this way, this beautiful classic was also introduced into the sartorial world, without being in conflict with certain traditions.

Many brands, ranging from Brooks Brothers to Ralph Laurendiscovered a certain sophistication and elegance that goes with the striped tie. It is now a classic in the American wardrobe among prepsters and classic style seekers.

Das-Etiquette

So both the colours of the stripes and the direction may have a meaning. Membership of a military regiment, an exclusive club, or a prestigious university such as Oxford, Cambridge or Harvard. It provides a clear identity for these groups. It must be said that it is not appreciated if you wear a tie with meaning and you are not or were not a member of this group. You have no right to it and some people even take offence.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Overcoats come in a variety of styles and models.
Most people just call it an overcoat, or in English; a Chesterfield or Crombie. They not only offer the wearer adequate protection from the elements, but also make you look good. However, there are differences. The fact is that the overcoat conveys a lot about the wearer. What is he wearing underneath?
Which model do you need? Which style suits you best? What fabric have you chosen? Personally, I wear several. With a centre placket, double-breasted, navy-blue, beige/camel and grey checkered. The materials range from a firm hard wool to a soft wool-cashmere blend, to even a full cashmere one. So let's take a closer look at the overcoat.

THE 'CROMBIE'

J & J Crombie Ltd. Is a British clothing manufacturer. They make high-end clothing and accessories under the Crombie name.
They are best known for their luxury overcoats. So much so that other brands use the name Crombie to refer to their own product line made in the same style: A ¾ overcoat, usually in wool. However, Crombie is known to be taking legal action against these practices and the generic use of their name.

Immediately recognisable is the Retro jacket: the most iconic of all time, and exclusively available at Crombie. The Retro takes its inspiration from the first men's overcoats and the stylish English topcoats, with an exceptional eye for detail. In a classic cut, with single overlap closure, it exudes tradition and elegant British timelessness.

Followers of this classic include Sir Winston Churchill, The Beatles, and Cary Grant. Available in a rich navy blue, or strong black, each jacket is carefully lined in red, and has a distinctive collar in black velvet. Classic and multifunctional, this Crombie icon, and therefore this style, is a favourite with heads of state and the classic movie stars of yesteryear.

THE 'CHESTERFIELD

The Chesterfield is a long, overcoat named after Sir George Stanhope, the 6e Earl of Chesterfield, and leader of British fashion in the 1830s and 1840s.
The Chesterfield appeared around 1840, along with the so-called "lounge suit", as an alternative to
the high-cut overcoats such as the frock overcoat, which was heavily fitted with horizontal seams and stitching. The Chesterfield has no horizontal seams or boning, but can still be elegantly shaped with side seams or figure seams.

It has a single or double-breasted fastening, and was popular in a variety of fabrics, typically the heavier tweed, in coal-grey or dark blue, and even the camel-coloured classic. It is often fitted with a velvet collar. These variants make it very multifunctional, such that it can be worn with a suit in the city, or even semi-formal, up to even sportier.

It was a trend-setter for stylish men in the 1920s to 1960s, and has been a classic for both men and women ever since.

THE COVERT COAT

The covert coat was originally a short overcoat worn while hunting. Today, it is sold as a regular overcoat. However, it was designed in the late 19the century to wear while riding. That is why the jacket always has a high slit in the back. The Covert fabric from which the jacket is made, is a sturdy Tweed, named after the covered area, the area where a lot of game was found, and thus served as the starting point of a hunting party.
The covert coat is always single-breasted, middle closure so, lapels with notch, pockets with flaps. A ticket-pocket is optional. Typical is the stitching: 4 or 5 lines at the cuffs of the sleeves, and at the bottom of the jacket, on the hem. The collar is made of either covert fabric or rich velvet. The traditional colour varies from a light greenish beige, to an indulgent shade of green, but variants in rice and dark blue are equally common.

Variations were worn by George VI and Edward VIII, but equally by both Jason Statham and Stephen Graham in the 2000 crime comedy film Snatch. The covert coat received much media attention during the 2015 UK election, when it was worn by UKIP party leader Mr Nigel Farage

THE 'POLO COAT'

The polo coat, also known as the camel overcoat, was originally worn by polo players in England.
It is always available from Ralph Lauren, but not designed by him.
The polo coat was originally a coat with a belt. Eventually, it evolved into a double-breasted model with a button closure.
Before the 1st World War, polo arrived in the US and when players wore their jackets after matches, the polo coat was adopted by spectators and fashion leaders alike. In 1926, this camel-hair coat became especially popular among students at Princeton and Yale, and a few seasons later it had completely conquered the United States. By the end of the 1920s, almost every Ivy League undergrad had a Chesterfield and Polo Coat wardrobe.
Originally in camel hair, later a mixture with sheep's wool, because of its durability.
The terms "polo-coat" and "camel-coat" are therefore synonymous.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy