The Etiquette of the Sock.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

You can surf endlessly and Google around to find articles or rules about socks and men.
But that would be a waste of time for gentlemen or dandies. I have it all here for you, in a condensed form.
You will find a beautiful sock shop in Paris.
The shop is called 'mes chaussettes rouges'.

As a distinguished Gentleman once said: "Socks are by far, in my opinion, one of the most understated fundamentals of a man's wardrobe! As I sit in crowds of highly dressed men, not necessarily over-the-top but classic men, their socks are the silent topic that separates the junior executives from the partners."

  • White socks are only worn during sports.
  • Dressy shoes naturally require dressy socks. There is one basic rule: The dressier the situation, the darker the stockings or socks.
  • Match the colour with the trousers, not with the shoes. Black trousers with black socks, and we do the same with, for example, blue or grey. White trousers, white socks (no socks). When in doubt, always choose the darkest variant.
  • Socks or stockings that are coordinated with the colour of the trousers will make your outfit look more flowing. But, on the other hand, if they contrast, they can break up an otherwise dull look.
  • So a secondary colour is sometimes a good or nice alternative: matched with the colour of the tie, the pocket square or the shirt, for example. If you are wearing a green tie, a green accent in the socks can spice up your look. Anything above the waist, or belt is ok.
  • Never roll up your socks, or beat them. It is typical of the 80s and a real example of bad taste. It even looks strange.
    If your socks or stockings are pulled up properly, as they should be, they will give you a sleek beautiful line, even with the tightest of trousers.
  • Never wear socks or stockings with shorts or Bermuda shorts. There is not much more to be said about this. You don't want to look like a example of bad taste.
  • Renew your socks and stockings regularly: Every 6 months is recommended. They have a hard life and need to be worn a lot. They should be and remain soft and supple.
  • No socks in bed! You would not appreciate it if your partner did this either. We can safely say that it is quite repulsive.
  • Basic rule: When wearing a suit and sitting down, possibly with your legs crossed, one should never see your bare leg between your stockings or socks and the trousers.
  • The length of dress stockings: up to or over the calf.
  • To make sure you buy good quality: Look for a flat hem at the end near the toes.

But who am I to say that you should follow the rules? After all, aren't rules there to be broken? Follow your own rules.
Create your own style. It can be fun to experiment and add some Sprezzatura to your appearance.
Remember, every sock, every stocking has its occasion!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The controversy of the colour pink.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

First, we must ask ourselves why many, if not most, men avoid wearing pink-coloured garments?

Many men - mostly those with too much macho content - consider pink a feminine colour. And precisely because of this unfortunate stereotype, many refuse to wear this colour. One of the many reasons is that it gives them a certain degree of insecurity. They feel that the colour determines their sexual orientation or degree of masculinity.

Which, of course, is completely out of the blue. Are you a macho or a wimp? Let's go back in history for a moment.
Until the mid-20th century, pink was preferred for boys because of its brightness and blue for girls because of its association with the Virgin Mary.

Before the 1950s, the pink colour even exuded a certain 'masculine strength'. There were even 'khaki' trousers in the army that were nicknamed 'pinks' because of the pink glow they sometimes had. Nevertheless, today we have to conclude that there is still a strong female connotation attached to it, and this for both women and men.

And even longer ago the soldiers wore, at the Battle of Waterloored coats. This was done very deliberately, because a wounded or dead person's blood would not scare the 'mates'. Later this evolved into pink.

Secondly, we look at why and how men can wear pink.
The colour has a lot of potential for combining. It is flamboyant and adds a certain 'lightness' to your outfit. The colour pink is a sublime addition to, for example, brown, khaki, a monochrome outfit, and the darker versions of blue.

Pink is a colour that can be worn both formally and casually. Think for example of a black or grey suit that can be brightened up with a fresh shirt colour. Pink does this with ease! It is classic and gives a gentleman a certain elegance. Think of a man of the world strolling around Mayfair, possibly with a ciara in his hand, ready to take over the world. Just as easily, this scene can be set on the Chapms Elysées or on Fifth Avenue.

Third: How to wear a pink shirt, and how to combine?

As pink can be a rather bright, even cheeky colour, it is best combined with the darker tones. However, the colour is versatile: it goes well with both black and grey. Dark grey, I mean. For me, blue is the colour of choice.

Navy: Just plain with a dark blue suit. The colours complement each other perfectly. That said, with a blue blazer too! And with this, a pair of pink flannel trousers, or if you are more of a preppy type, a nice chino or khaki.

Combine with jeans and brown loafers. Or even white jeans in summer and black loafers? Also, never forget to match your belt with your shoes.

Seasonally, pink feels best in spring and summer! The sunlight really makes the colour stand out.

Tips & Facts:

  • Try to avoid pink t-shirts or jumpers.
  • Psychological research has shown that the colour pink has a calming effect on other people. It relaxes them.
  • Dark or tanned skin goes better with the pastel varieties.
  • The pink polo is eternally preppy. An Ivy-League look.
  • If you still think it would be too feminine in its look, feel free to combine it with masculine accessories such as braces, a waistcoat, or even Better, a cardigan. Keep your accessories to a minimum though, as pink is a statement anyway. Less is more in this case!
  • It shows that you are no longer a child who needs to wear boys' clothes. The colour does require a certain shape, or let's say level of self-confidence. And having said that, it does not define anyone's sexuality. It is best to consider this belief as underdeveloped.
  • The colour also has the property of demanding female attention, which has also been scientifically proven. Many ladies feel that a man who wears pink is more self-confident, sensitive and in touch with his inner self and emotions. These qualities are generally highly appreciated by women.
  • Wearing pink makes you stand out, and makes you more powerful A 2012 study commissioned by Cotton USAhas revealed some surprising facts, showing that men who wear pink earn, on average, $1,200 more on a yearly basis. These men also impress female colleagues more, and they perform with more self-confidence. If you get lost in a crowd, your friends or family can easily find you. After all, you are that sensitive man surrounded by ladies.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The Sidecar, the classic among cocktails!

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Harry's New York Bar, Paris.
As you may have gathered, I am a big fan of iconic things. Because, admittedly, they are always iconic for a reason! I drank my first Sidecar during my student days in 'Harry's Bar New Yorkwhen I lived and studied in Switzerland, at the famous 'Montreux Palace Hotel' in Montreux. And since the holidays are upon us again, a better cocktail may be poured, in these times of pre-made mixers, and other pre-made colourful fantasies. Gentlemen, you just can't go wrong with the following motto: 'Stick to the Classics'.

The Ritz Hotel in Paris claims the origin of this cocktail.
The first recipes for making the Sidecar appeared as early as 1922, in Harry MacElhone's 'Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails' and in Robert Vermeire's 'Cocktails and How to Mix Them'. It is also one of the six basic drinks listed in David A. Embury's 'The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1948)'. The tasty drink is most closely related to the older cognac 'Crusta', although it does differ in presentation, size and ingredients.

Buck's Club, London.
In the early editions of MacElhone's book, he quotes Pat MacGarry as the inventor. The popular bartender in Buck's Club, London. However, in later editions he mentions himself. Vermeire says that the cocktail was very popular in France and that it was first introduced in London by MacGarry, the celebrated bartender. Embury, on the other hand, gives credit for the invention to an American army captain in Paris during the First World War. He named the cocktail after the fast sidecar motorbike he was riding at the time!

By the way, speaking of Paris. When I lived there, I couldn't help but visit 'Harry's New York BarOf course. And you can guess it, I drank my Sidecars in this authentic bar too.

As complicated as it may look in the mixology canon, it deceives you in its simplicity. Actually, it is easy to make like your morning cup of coffee! With the simple combination of just three ingredients and a few ice cubes to spice it up, a perfect taste and aroma match is achieved. Although it is very simple in structure, it is certainly complex enough to satisfy the most spoilt taste buds.

If you feel like it, you can experiment with the proportions. The oldest recipes talk about the proportional, simple mix of the 3 ingredients, but for many this is a bit boring. Several guides and recipe books mention a 2:1:1 ratio of Cognac, lemon juice and Cointreau. I, however, prefer to add a little more Cointreau (triple sec) than lemon to keep a balance that is acceptable to me. But feel free to taste and test your own proportions.

Belroy's Bijou, Antwerp.
To be sure, I made an appointment with one of the best cocktail bars in Antwerp, Belroy's Bijouwhere a passionate top mixologist, Mr. Dieter Van Roy, explained to me, with the right moves, how they make a more than good Sadecar.

 

Ingredients:

  • Cognac: 4cl
  • Cointreau: 1 cl
  • Lemon / Lemon: 3 cl
  • Sugar syrup: 2 cl (sugar to be dissolved in water in proportion: 1:1)

With expert flair, the snarled Dieter mixes for me a delicious Sidecar, with a smooth swing.

How do we do it?
Combine the Cognac or brandy, the Cointreau, and the lime juice in a cocktail shaker, together with the sugar syrup, and fill well with ice cubes. No ice flakes otherwise it will dilute too much. Shake vigorously for at least 10 seconds, and pour through a strainer. Garnish the glass with a slice of orange or lime peel if you wish to brighten it up.
Easy peasy as they say, or in French: 'Simple comme bonjour'.

Optional:
Prepare the cocktail glass by making a slit in a lime slice and going over the edge of the glass with it. Then turn the glass over and rub the rim with very fine sugar to make a superfine sugar rim stick to the glass. Chill the glass until you need it to serve the cocktail. The first mention of this sugar rim on a Sidecar is in 1934, in three books: 'Burke's Complete Cocktail & Drinking Recipes', 'Gordon's Cocktail & Food Recipes' and in 'Drinks As They Are Mixed' (a revised reprint of Paul E. Lowe's 1904 book).

Gentlemen......cheers !

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

/by

The history of the Trench Coat.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The Iconic Trench Coat: The Classic Amongst Raincoats

Autumn, so we have rain and cold wind. This requires appropriate clothing. So the mackintosh comes out again!
The most classic is of course the iconic Trench Coat. Of military origin, it is always waterproof, usually with buttons and a belt made of the same material. It is a very detailed garment: many pockets and buttons, flaps and, especially in the past, epaulettes.

Origin:

The word 'trench' indicates the military origin, and comes from the 'trenches' of World War I. In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany.
In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany. In the autumn of 1914, the battle came to a standstill in a protracted trench warfare. Fighters from both sides were stuck for days on end in muddy foxholes, which invariably flooded during the frequent heavy rainfall. The army uniforms of the time were usually not designed for such conditions. The thick British woolen overcoats, in particular, became soaked almost immediately, causing thousands of soldiers, including a good number of officers, to succumb to disease. With winter approaching, the British army command therefore urgently sought an alternative winter coat, which they eventually found in the trench coat.

Who is the inventor?

Two British companies claim to have invented this jacket. Aquascutum claims to have introduced this trench coat to help British officers get a functional jacket. But according to their major competitor Burberry However, the first trench coat was designed in 1914 by Thomas Burberry, the then 80-year-old founder of the company. Both companies produced trench coats for the British army during the war, but we will probably never know which of them had the first idea. Aquascutum's claim to fame dates back to the 1850s. However, Thomas Burberry, the inventor of gabardine, submitted a design of the new officer's coat to the British Ministry of Defence in 1901.

In any case, it was an instant success! The waterproof gabardine fabric offered perfect protection from the rain, as did the loose flap at the back. On top of that, the jacket came up to the knees, which made it long enough to keep the upper legs warm, but too short to drag through the mud. Officers could stow their gear in the large spacious pockets and sweat smell could escape through the vents.

Unfortunately, the trench coat was not free. Military personnel who wanted to wear it had to pay for it out of their own pockets. A trench coat cost about 3 to 4 pounds, which for an ordinary soldier was the equivalent of 3 to 4 months' pay. The result? The trench coat became a status symbol among the British officers. This even went so far that the army commanders at one point forbade anyone below the rank of sergeant major to wear the coat. Sad, but true. However, this had the unintended effect of greatly increasing the mortality rate among British officers, as the German snipers could now more easily pick them off.

Those same years were also the heyday of the great expeditions. One of the first to try gabardine was the British explorer Ernest Shackleton. Ernest Shackletonwho, in 1914, secretly crashed his ship into the crushing ice in Antarctica but managed to survive thanks to Burberry's indestructible fabric. And, of course, incredible perseverance.

So what is a trench coat really?

The trench coat is obviously a mackintosh made of gabardine, but leather or poplin are also sometimes used. It usually has a removable insulating lining and the classic models range in length from calf height to just above the knee.
Traditionally, it has a double row of ten buttons, wide lapels and a belt around the waist and sleeve ends. There are often flaps on the shoulders that can be closed with buttons. The classic colour for a trench coat is khaki.

During the First World War, the well known typical shoulder flaps and straps were added to the design of the trench coat. The shoulder flaps were used to attach epaulettes and other rank insignia; the belts, according to legend, were used to attach hand grenades. This sounds very tough and masculine, but in reality, swords and maps were simply attached to them.

Evolution

During the Second World Wars, different variants appeared. Usually shorter for more freedom of movement. We won't go into that now, but we can say that the trench coat was here to stay. Nowadays, it graces the streets of both men and women. Not only veterans, but also Hollywood ensured the fame and status and later spread worldwide.

Several famous actors wore this jacket in classic films, such as Humphrey Bogart in 'Casablanca' and Marlene Dietrich in 'A Foreign Affair'. The fact that gangsters, detectives and femmes fatales appeared on the big screen in trench coats made the garment even more attractive to the general public. The trench coat's reputation was definitively established.

Other fictional heroes also contributed: Inspector Columbo, Dick Tracy, Neo from The Matrix and Peter Sellers' Inspector Jacques Clouseau. Michael Caine in Get Carter, Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy and Alain Delon in Le Samouraï. They usually wear a Fedora or, in extremely cold weather, an Ushanka.

What is Gabardine anyway, you may ask?

Gabardine is a fabric in a steep twill weave. Traditionally, the fabric is made of wool. Mixes of cotton, artificial fibre and wool, as well as fully synthetic variants, are also common. Gabardine is impregnated with waterproofing agents, is durable and crease-resistant. Because of these properties, it is used for suits and uniforms, but especially for mackintoshes. The origin of the fabric is not entirely clear. British fashion designer Thomas Burberry is said to have invented it in 1879 as a mixture of wool and cotton, but according to other sources, the name is derived from the Parisian fashion house Gabartin.
On the right side of the fabric, gabardine has more warp threads than weft threads. There are often twice as many warp threads as weft threads. The warp thread usually passes through two weft threads before passing under one or two weft threads. This compact weave makes gabardine water-repellent and crease-resistant. Like any twill weave, gabardine has characteristic diagonal lines. These are clearly visible, close together and slightly raised. The angle of the diagonals is 45 or 63 degrees. Men's fashion more often uses variants with the larger angle. Women's fashion predominantly uses the smaller angle.

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

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