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Tuxedo - Black Tie - Smoking ....... Are you going to wear a watch? Or not wearing one? Will you or will you not? And why?
Soon the holidays will arrive, and you should think about it anyway.
This is a question I get asked on a regular basis. Therefore, in order to clear up the confusion, and to separate assumptions from facts...
Let's look at the arguments! Because in the past, it really wasn't possible. And in some environments, it still isn't possible.

CONTRAs:

  • It does not look like it! Since the dinner jacket or tuxedo is minimalist in style. Sleek and elegant, but sober. A watch takes the balance out of it, and makes the whole less stylish.
  • Etiquette! Perhaps the most important argument! A wristwatch can send the signal to the host of the exclusive event you are attending that, no matter how much effort he or she puts into organising it, you are still losing track of time. This may be seen as disrespectful. Perhaps you have somewhere else to go? All your attention should go to the host or hostess, and the guests.
  • You don't need a watch at all, as everyone has a smartphone nowadays anyway.

PROs:

  • Well, sometimes you just want to know what time it is.
  • You have a very beautiful watch and want to wear it.
  • A wristwatch is still better than looking at your smartphone. It is simply less conspicuous to look discreetly at your wrist than to take your smartphone out of your pocket, lift the screen and look at the time display.
  • Even contemporary style icons wear a watch on the red carpet. Not that this should be considered a true reference, but it does say something about today's prevailing standards.
  • Mr. Alan Flusser, author of many iconic books and style manuals, wrote about which watch, and how to wear it with a dinner jacket. And his books are internationally regarded as the manuals of classic style and class.

However:

Have you ever Fred Astaire in his tuxedo wearing a wristwatch? I don't think so.
And I challenge you all to look more stylish than he ever did! Mr. B. James Bond,
Mr. 007, regarded by many, if not the majority, as an example of contemporary style and class, always wears a wristwatch. Even in combination with a dinner jacket. He even takes it a step further, as it is usually a fairly sturdy and heavy sports watch.
Oh well, as long as it's cinematic. When I myself attend an event, where dinner jacket or dinner jacket is desired or required, I can't help but notice that the rule of 'no watch with dinner jacket', can be considered quite dated. What you do yourself, you can of course distinguish. What is appropriate...'.

So, what now?

So now that we have established what is acceptable and what is not, more or less, it does not mean that we can just do whatever we want. If you still want to come across as stylish and classy, there are still rules that need to be followed. Or let's call it 'friendly advice'.
As a gentleman, or modern-day gentleman, we do follow these rules.....:

  • Basic rule: If you have decided to wear a wristwatch, choose as formal a model as possible. If you are going to wear it to the beach or for mountain biking, for example, then definitely don't wear it at night!
  • Aesthetics: Roman numerals in place of numbers are increasingly elegant and clearly more formal. The dial is simple, elegant, and not too conspicuous. And you certainly don't need chronographs, day-dates or other complicated world timers. On the other hand, you can still get away with a nice moon-phase display or complication.
  • Always wear the wristwatch on the left wrist. In this way, it will not be visible when you greet someone and shake hands.
    Your sleeve and cuff will creep up.
  • Ideally, a simple model. The smaller and less conspicuous it is, the more appropriate.
  • If you really need to know the time, do it as inconspicuously as possible. Go to the toilets, or retreat to an empty hall or corridor, or go outside for a moment if you have the chance.
  • Always do the cuff test first. Make sure the watch is not so big that it sits uncomfortably under the sleeve. Make sure it is worn as unnoticeably as possible.
  • Make sure your watch has no audible alarms: no beeping or ringing. Let's not attract attention.
    Especially not during a dinner, theatre performance or concert.
  • Let's avoid watches that glow in the dark. This can be considered distracting. And can be very distracting in the theatre, for example.
  • Check the time as little as possible, and certainly not during a conversation. Then your watch is not worthy of a glance, out of respect for your conversation partner.
  • If you do decide to wear a wristwatch, it should match your cufflinks and any shirt studs. Yellow gold with yellow gold, silver with silver, rose gold with rose gold. Absolutely no combinations or fantasies are allowed. We also adapt to the rings you wear, and/or the glasses frame even.
  • If possible, wear a pocket watch, especially in the case of a skirt suit. It is considered a stylish accessory here.
  • The watch strap is preferably black. Certainly not coloured, striking or flashy. However, with a dark blue tuxedo, a dark blue strap is also possible.
  • Keep the strap buckle as simple as possible.
  • If it looks good, it is good. I do take into account your good taste and at least a basic knowledge of vestimentary class.

Conclusion:   

Yes, it is possible nowadays, especially if you use your common sense.
However, if you are very traditional,.... Then don't wear a wristwatch.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Kennedy Masonic Store Dutch RegaliaThe nautical refers to the sea and ships or boats. There is the romantic image that is reflected in a navy blazer with shiny brass or gold buttons, a snow-white sailor's uniform, a yellow sou'wester, or the classic dark blue or striped sailor's jumper from Normandy, with buttons on the shoulder .... The writing can be a bit more light-hearted, and as we are still in the middle of a beautiful Indian summer, the opportunity may still present itself to go sailing or be invited for a nice trip or afternoon on the water.


I would therefore like to give you some sartorial tips, for the classic traditional on the water, and also some fun 'facts'.
Well, nowadays anything goes, even on the water, but as a supporter of the classic and stylish ... well, you get my drift.

First of all, we should state that there is a big difference between 'going sailing' (yachting) and 'going on a cruise' (cruising). Going on a cruise is actually the same as going to a hotel. The only difference is that you do so on a cruise ship, which is in fact just a floating hotel. So going sailing or cruising is indeed where the difference lies. And where certain rules have to be followed.
Rules that have a clear practical reason, and others that are more traditional in origin.
In any case, if you are a gentleman, you should follow them.


The Basic Rules:

  • Of course you should dress nautically (how original!)
  • You always wear shoes with white soles. Preferably the leather version of the 'deck-shoes' like Sebago or Sperry Topsiders. The deck of the boat, usually in teak, does not like the stripes or smudges caused by dark soles. And the captain or owner of the yacht certainly does not! If you do not have shoes with white soles, go barefoot.
  • Never wear red trousers on board. This privelge is traditionally reserved for those who have crossed the Atlantic.
    By boat. And we don't mean a cruise ship!

What is suggested:

  • Johnny Walker Jude Law Masonic shop dutch regaliaWhite or beige / écru trousers, or depending on the weather, shorts (chino or khaki).
  • Navy blue blazer or cardigan.
  • Go for a preppy look. Preppy takes a lot of inspiration from the nautical lifestyle.
  • Wear a classic polo shirt.
  • Or, slightly dressier, a snow-white shirt.
  • Wear a brown leather belt. It compliments the white of your outfit perfectly.
  • Always bring a jumper or windbreaker. After all, it can be chilly or windy on the water.
  • Don't forget the sunscreen. The reflection of the sun's rays on the water intensifies the effect.
  • Your shoes should not only have a white sole, they should also have a firm grip on the (wet) deck.
  • Socks? That depends on your style. But never, never, never even white ones in sandals!
  • Red is a perfect and beautiful colour for your sailing jacket or wind-breaker!

Accessories & How to complete your Nautical look:
A classic pair of pilot or sailing glasses will always give you a smooth look. A Ray-Ban Wayfarer is a stylish alternative. And if you really want to go for style, like the two gentlemen in the photo, then you should buy a classic pair of sailing glasses. Persol
Always make sure you have good lenses, because you are on the water and there is a lot of reflection.

  • A nice leather belt is important because it will always be very visible.
  • A cap to protect you from the sun, splashing (salt) water, wind and rain.
  • A nice heavy (waterproof) watch completes the overall look.
  • You can drape your beautiful jumper or pullover over the shoulders for a relaxing effect.
  • If you prefer something more dressy, go for a double-breasted version of the navy blazer.
  • A shirt in light jeans fabric (Chambray).
  • Everything with a coat of arms, preferably that of yourself, a club, or the yacht club to which you belong.
  • In short, everything in white, red, navy and/or striped. But never more than 2 colours combined if you opt for stripes.

How to behave / Superstition vs. tradition:

  • JFK nautical Masonic shop dutch regaliaAs mentioned before, red trousers only if you have crossed 'the big pond'.
  • Do not wear green on board. That is a country colour.
  • There is no whistling (lips). Cfr. "Whistling a storm".
  • Do not wear a bandana. However cool it may seem, you are not a pirate!
  • Bananas are not allowed on board either: First, they go bad too quickly, but legend has it that during the height of Spanish rule, and trade with the Caribbean in the 1700s, most of the lost ships carried bananas. Coincidence or not?
  • When "boarding", always do this with the right foot first.
  • No female crew (very old-fashioned, and outdated of course). Originally it was thought that they would distract the crew too much. I wonder what has changed.
  • No rabbits on board. The word is not even pronounced!
  • The senior officer, or captain, is the first to enter the sloop, or tender. But also the first to leave it. LIFO (Last In, First Out)
  • No pigs will come on board.
  • Never, ever rename a boat or a ship. If it is really necessary, keep the old name somewhere on board. If the name has been changed, do not forget to put a small coin in the deepest part of the hull. Never forget this!
  • Never leave your home port on a Friday.
  • Do not do this on a Thursday either. Thursday' is Thor's day, the god of thunder and storm.
  • On board, never cut your hair, clip your nails or trim your beard. It's a no-no, because it brings bad luck.
  • Avoid redheads! If you meet one or other of them just before you sign on or board, it will bring bad luck.
    But if you speak to them before they speak to you, it will bring good luck again.
  • "Rounding the two horns" of the ship means that you may sit at the table with both elbows during meals. (Many traditions and sayings come from the English, for England used to be the seafaring country).
  • Cats on board are highly debatable: Some say they bring bad luck, others happiness and prosperity.
  • The captain is always right. And even if the captain is not right, the captain is always right.

______________________________________________
It goes without sayingthat different rules apply for a modern fast sailing boat. After all, you have to 'work' on board. So: 'dress to the occasion'.
______________________________________________

Anecdote:
When inventor & sailor Paul A. Sperry was sailing on the Long Island Sound, he slipped on the deck of his boat and fell overboard. He was fortunately able to pull himself back on board, but this frightening experience drove him to develop a non-slip shoe sole. While experimenting with all kinds of possibilities for the non-slip shoes, he noticed the amazing ability of his dogs to walk down an icy hill without slipping. The grooves on the paws of his beloved four-legged friend, the cocker spaniel Prince, inspired him to cut into a natural rubber sole to create similar grooved patterns (slats). So the pattern of grooves or cracks on his dog's legs gave him the idea for a canvas upper shoe with a herringbone pattern of grooves on the sole.
So, now you know!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant for Scapa ,Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy







 

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The flower loop (flower-loop in traditional English tailoring) is the loop at the back of the left reverie of the collar. Handmade, and formerly used to put the stem of the flower behind. The flower that was put through the buttonhole. Usually a carnation and for special occasions a rose of course! The boutonniere, or 'buttonhole' to which many people refer, is not really used to fold up the lapel and close it when it's raining or windy, but is purely a floral decoration element. One inserts a single flower or 'stud'. 

By the way, if it is not a real passage, i.e. not functional, most people nowadays unfortunately pin the flower, or the 'corsage', with a safety pin or something similar. Especially with a dinner jacket or dinner jacket. Let's not think about the damage this causes to your collar. Especially if it is a silk one with a dinner jacket.

It also symbolises a certain tradition. And tradition, don't we love that as real gentlemen? Let's appreciate and cherish this little detail. And use it for its purpose, of course! 
Unfortunately, we are talking about a tradition that is becoming less and less common. Let's keep it simple and just wear a flower, a carnation, or maybe even a rose, on the lapel of your blazer when you go out to dinner for example. As an ode to your partner, or just for fun. People are guaranteed to look at you and even label you. Yes, as a dandy or playboy, when in fact you are just a gentleman. And also shows that you know your world. Because let's face it, can we only wear a flower to events?
At galas or weddings? It seems to me that a little elegance is always a bonus! 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of ScapaReinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits, writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform. He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy
Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

I am sure of it. You may have wondered at one time or another... Why is it that men zip their jackets to the right (left over right) and women zip their jackets to the left (right over left)?
You are certainly not the only one asking yourself this question!
Well, the answer to both questions is actually quite simple and logical. Where does this custom come from?  

Let's start with the men. The jacket or vest, with the buttons on the right and the buttonholes on the left. This is how we have all known it 'since time immemorial'. If we look at it historically, we come to the fact that, in earlier times, the clothing for gentlemen of standing, especially the richer gentlemen, the real gentlemen, was provided to carry weapons as well, or even to hide them. 

Since most men would take or hold their sword, sword or sabre in their right hand, "it was therefore more convenient, and above all much quicker than their left hand, to open the jacket, waistcoat or overcoat." Yes, real men do not take risks! Real men also think functionally. Purely for convenience, for efficiency. So we must look at this as a purely practical measure.
Stylistically there is no reason for this. Sartorially insignificant even. 

You can also find good examples of this in the old portraits. All these 'hand-in-waistcoat' drawings and paintings that were so popular in the 19th century... One hand is always visible in an open section of the coat: right to left, so that one could quickly draw the weapon if necessary.
The sword or sabre, after all, was usually carried on the left side, and could therefore be drawn quickly with the right hand! 

If the jacket or vest were to close the other way round, the hilt of the sword, sabre or sword would get stuck in the clothing. Totally impractical, and when it came down to it, life determining! Every right-minded gentleman of standing therefore always demanded of his tailor that the fastening be carried out in this way, professionally.

This way of dressing, and reference to a male lifestyle, this tradition, was logically transferred to all the other (male) garments. Think especially of the shirts and possibly the waistcoats. It is that simple! It's elementary, my dear Watson'.

Why do the ladies wear it the other way round, you may ask? And this too has a very logical explanation. The reason is not because they are ladies, and ladies always have to or want to do everything differently. We can also state that weaponry and ladies do not really go together, so there is no reason for that either. 

The real ladies of the house used to be dressed by their servants, or the maid, or the nanny: And for a right-handed (most people are right-handed) person, it is simply more convenient to do it right over left from an inverted frontal perspective. Efficiency for the staff, then. Again, a practical elaboration, to make life easier for all parties involved. By the way, it is also easier for a right-handed gentleman to open the clothes that have been closed the way he has.

It has probably had little or no significant influence throughout our history, but I am sure that at some point a gentleman must have misjudged it, with his buckle and buttons on the 'wrong side', and was thus woefully late in drawing his sabre or sword, and defending himself properly.

So, in conclusion, we can say that this is why he was chopped in the middle, or something like that. Fortunately, we now all know the 'what', 'how' and 'why', but these are the initial reasons why designers maintain this tradition. You can also see the right-knot orientation as a direct relic from the warfare of the time:

"To ensure that an enemy's lance point would not slip between the plates," curators write in "The Art of Chivalry: European Arms and Armor from the Metropolitan Museum of Art"., "they overlapped from left to right, since it was a standard fighting practice that the left side, protected by the shield, was turned toward the enemy. Thus, men's jackets button left to right even to the present day."

Conclusion:
From a practical point of view, an efficient tradition was started. Totally useless nowadays, but the background of the whole story is actually quite fascinating. You see, even today, in contemporary fashion, certain traditions are still respected, although few will really know why. And as we all know and understand, many traditions are there to be honoured and respected. They were created for a reason. 

We can say that this is a trivial fact for many, not to say the vast majority, but it doesn't hurt to have it. And it can be a fun conversation starter in what would otherwise be a boring conversation!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy