Acqua di Parma. The classic Italian cologne.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The brand's classic Colonia Acqua di Parma is still considered the epitome of craftsmanship and good taste.

The sophisticated alchemy, which was immediately successful and became an evergreen classic, still offers sensations of incomparable freshness and radiance. Pure joy of life released by the sunny essences of the best Sicilian citrus fruits and a harmonious blend of lavender, rosemary, verbena and damask rose. This is followed by warm woody notes such as vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli. Inimitable accords capable of seduction, oblivious of time and fashion.
The Colonia formula has remained unchanged for almost one hundred years.

The elegant Art Deco bottle, with its distinctive Bakelite stopper, has been an undisputed style icon since 1930. The exquisite craftsmanship is reflected in every detail of the packaging, entirely handmade and marked by the coat of arms of the Duchy of Parma and the yellow that has adorned the city's elegant buildings for decades.
A timeless classic.

The founder, Baron Carlo Magnani.

The best inventions are often inspired by personal passion. So it was with the Colonia perfume that was created a century ago thanks to Baron Carlo Magnani. The Baron had an innate sensitivity for art, culture and good taste. He regularly travelled to London, which in those days was a considerable undertaking, and returned with a number of Burberry-trenchcoats and Church-shoes under the arm...

This adventurous gentleman from a distinguished family in Parma searched for a perfume that would suit his modern and sophisticated lifestyle. Paris, London, New York. However, what he could not find was the one perfume that would complete the overall picture of his refined personal style. Back home in Parma, Magnani delved into the matter and defined the character of his ultimate perfume. He knew it had to be modern and fresh, and with a detailed description he approached a Master Perfumer. In 1916, he decided to create his own cologne, which resulted in the classic Colonia, the very first Acqua di Parma fragrance. From all those travels, he drew inspiration for exclusive fragrances. Lavender, damask rose, lemon, bergamot, orange, but for this first fragrance, the founder of Acqua Di Parma was mainly inspired by his homeland, Italy and the burning sun.
Moreover, all the brand's products are produced in this country by craftsmen who work with the very best materials. Simplicity, elegance, craftsmanship, all these adjectives form the identity of the brand, which reveals its many facets in each of its fragrances.

Meanwhile, Magnani himself drew the strikingly modern flacon and devised the distinctive yellow packaging. The company's logo is the coat of arms of Marie Louise, Duchess of Parmawho reigned from 1816-1847. This is a tribute to her reign and the help she gave to develop Parma's perfume and glass industries.

Colonia, Magnani's own creation, was initially sold exclusively at leading tailors and clothes shops specialising in tailor-made suits.
They sprinkled this cologne on the fabric of the suit. Thus was born the image of Colonia as the ultimate accessory, closely linked to the Italian tradition of elegance and tailoring.

At the time, most commercial perfumes were much stronger and heavier in composition; thus, the unusually light and refreshing fragrance from Parma found great success in Europe.
In the 1930s, the growing popularity of cologne led to an increase in its production and the development of its distribution. The 1930s and 1950s are described as a "golden age" for Acqua di Parma Colonia, which became very successful among members of high society, with a clientele of celebrities.

In the 1950s, Hollywood was enchanted by the style of Italian gentlemen. Many American stars wanted a taste of the Italian Dolce Vita and travelled to Europe more than once to visit this country that captured their imagination. Thanks to these prominent Hollywood actors who were flown in by the great Italian film-makers, they came to love and admire the Italian style they saw in grooming products and barber shops. In between filming, the stars took the opportunity to measure themselves for an authentic Italian tailor-made suit in the chic clothes shops and in the process they got to know Colonia.

Carlo Magnani smelled his chance and created a timeless aroma that not only captured American hearts, but, like a shock wave, conquered and enchanted the whole world. With Acqua di Parma, he did more than produce attractive fragrances; he enabled men to immerse themselves in the Italian lifestyle, to feel like a true gentleman.

A new life.

When the family business was taken over in 1993 by 3 entrepreneurs When the family business was taken over in 1993 by people from the Italian luxury industry, a new era began.
Acqua di Parma was given a second youth and a new look, among other things by expanding the perfume line with incense, candles, household linen and leather accessories.
In 1998, the first Acqua di Parma shop was opened in Milan. It was located in close proximity to a number of boutiques of big names in haute couture and pret-a-porter, including Gucci, Prada and Versace. Today, Acqua di Parma's headquarters are still in Milan. Over the years, the brand has expanded its product range with the introduction of a home collection including bathrobes and towels and leather goods.

2016 - 100 years old

1916-2016. Acqua di Parma is a hundred years old. A century of history in which the brand, now more than ever, has become a world ambassador for Made in Italy thanks to the enduring values that are part of its origins and DNA.
A hundred years of knowledge and understanding of quality of the highest level. One hundred years of rigorous Italian craftsmanship in which Acqua di Parma has always applied the most meticulous manual production techniques. Each of its products is manufactured in individually selected Italian ateliers where the secrets of the trade are passed from generation to generation. Each item is made with patience, time and dedication according to the spirit of the oldest master craftsmanship, using only the most precious materials. Rare essential oils, the purest waxes, woods and precious metals, beautifully tactile and visually appealing leather, quality fabrics.

The greatest care has been taken over the smallest details and finishes, starting with the artisans who create the most exquisite fragrances, to those who craft precious scented candles and leather accessories, from those who create elegant accessories meant for the shaving ritual to the craftsmen who handcraft the boxes and attach each label by hand. By following these traditions, the brand has been consistently bringing new classics to the market for a hundred years. Timeless creations that radiate an innate elegance and a unique exclusivity. The purity of the design, the care for every detail, the most exquisite taste and perfection, a modern and evolved conception of luxury that does not need ostentation, but is recognisable by its eternal refinement.

In collaboration with the luxury Italian jeweller Damiani a limited edition bottle of Colonia is launched.
Exclusively for the English department store Harrods, the Centenary Edition Colonia was produced, limited to just 100 numbered pieces, one for each year of Acqua di Parma's fascinating history. The distinctive woody fragrance is presented in an elegant Art Deco bottle, wrapped in a sterling silver casing designed by Damiani and crafted by skilled Italian jewellers.
Finished with delicate embellishments and refined relief details, this distinctive souvenir piece is sure to be cherished for years to come.
One such unique bottle was sold for £750, the equivalent of over €875.

Thierry Stravers is co-owner of Masonic Store.
He likes to combine his passion for style and elegance with his Masonic activities.
Thierry is the owner of Trenicaa marketing agency and is a board member of Loge Enlightenment No.313 O: Hoofddorp.

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Some rules of etiquette, and their origins....

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Etiquette rules. I have not the slightest doubt that you know these 'rules' or the 'roots' that go with them, but a little background information is always nice.
On the contrary, you, my readers here, who I know to hold even these basics in high esteem. The how and why, I try to make clear.

Vest pocket button Masonic shopLeave the bottom button of your blazer or jacket open.
Origin:
When the new men's fashion reached the British royal family shortly after 1900, a problem arose. For the king was too fat. King Edward VII (still Prince of Wales in the early 1900s) was a real bon vivant.
He ate every day, hold on: a hearty breakfast; full lunch; tea with sandwiches and scones; dinner of twelve courses and a late supper. And on top of that, His Highness smoked 12 enormous cigars and 20 cigarettes a day.
Of course, to keep the digestion going. That is why he did not fit well in his jacket. It squeezed around his belly, and not just when he was sitting down. Edward decided to leave the bottom button of his waistcoat open. That way he could comfortably keep up with the fashion of the moment.

The High Society was often on horseback. When fashion changed and the jacket became part of the costume, King Edward thought that one thing should be kept from the old look. The jacket had to fall open at the bottom, as if you could get on a horse with it. That is why the king always left the bottom button open. So that open bottom button is an homage to the riding jacket. Edward undid the top button because it looked careless and nonchalant.

The High Society followed the king. Out of respect and perhaps also because it was more comfortable. This had a global impact. For the British Empire was at that time the largest empire of all time with a population of over 450 million people.

So what about today?
Well, this old habit has become a standard vestimentary rule. Not only at the level of etiquette, but also in contemporary fashion.
And, very importantly, we admit it, it is also much more comfortable.

Keeping the door open.
Origin:

Gentleman FreemasonryAlthough everyone thinks that the origin is truly chivalrous, the first gentleman so to speak, the truth is rather to be found in the practical. In the Middle Ages, and later Renaissance, women often wore wide or wide skirts combined with a narrow, tightly fitted corset. Not so obvious to pass through an ordinary doorway. In a large castle or fortress, with their majestic passages, which the ladies of rank were used to, this was not really a problem. But when on the move, a simple movement soon became virtually impossible. For simple practical reasons, the partners, or men, kept the door open so that their lady could pass easily.

It was also a question of not making the people behind wait too long. Since these were ladies of standing, this custom soon became associated with the upper class, and thus with well-bred gentlemen. It soon became synonymous with well-bredness. And now, long after the times of hooped skirts and corsets, it is simply seen as a sign of politeness and 'decorum'.

So what about today?

Gentleman FreemasonryNowadays, there are many who regard it as a form of 'benevolent sexism'. I myself, as the undersigned, was once even barked at by a woman (not a lady, because ladies don't bark) because I held the door open for her. As if I can't open a door myself', she said out loud and without hesitation. Well, I should have known: the asymmetry of her earrings and rings, the cropped sides, etc... truly a feminist at its best!
I suppose she thinks so herself. For which she has every respect, although she could have made it clear in another way. However, I experienced it as a pitiful expression of a ridiculous urge to confirm.

After all, it is better to regard it, not as an outdated custom, but as a non-gender-laden gesture of courtesy. Not just towards women or the elderly, but towards everyone. Just a courteous gesture to everyone. In case it is not appreciated by the other party, too bad for them, just smile and go on with your day. In 9 out of 10 cases, the gesture will be appreciated.
This gesture is also valid for opening the door of a carriage, car or automobile.

Gentleman hat Masonic shopTake off your hat indoors.
Origin:

In earlier days, men wore hats, other types of headdress and armour to protect themselves not only from the natural elements, but also from (potential) enemies. This head-dress was taken off indoors as a sign of trust (we are friends), and also to ensure that outside influences, such as rain, snow, leaves etc, would not fall on other people or meals.

Headgear is also removed at medal ceremonies and when a funeral procession passes by. A hat is worn as a fashion statement, but mainly as protection for your head against the natural elements. If you do not remove your hat indoors, it may be considered offensive by the host.
Sometimes a headgear can make it difficult to see your eyes, or it can cast a shadow on them. That does not look very neat. In the past, you were always asked to remove your hoof because some people hid their weapon on their head in that hat.

What about today?

Just like in times gone by, it shows respect for the place and host or hostess where you are received. Besides, you don't need protection from 'the elements' inside someone's house!

Putting the chair in front of a lady.
Origin:

Just like opening a door for a lady, the origin is to be found in the necessary helping of a lady (of Gentleman Freemasonrystand) , who was uncomfortably dressed. No matter how fashionable it was. There is really no need to look any further. Just a practical, yet gentlemanly gesture.
No more or less. Of course, there is also the theory that in this way, the lady could always see the entrance, and thus notice an incoming threat first.

So what about today?

And again, we have to move away from the commonly accepted that this gesture screams: 'I am only doing this because you need my help'.
The fact that you let a lady sit down first, be it your mother, sister, daughter or partner, only shows that you care about their welfare and comfort.
You give it priority over your own, which is a form of respect. It also gives you the opportunity to give your 'date' the best view.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The remake of the legendary Jaguar D-Type Roadster

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Jaguar Classic production of the iconic D-type racing car is to restart in Coventry 62 years after the last example was built in 1956. The first Jaguar D-type to be assembled by Jaguar Classic, a technical prototype, will make its world debut at this week's Salon Retromobile show in Paris. Just 25 new examples of the D-type will be meticulously hand-built at Jaguar Land Rover Classic Works in Warwickshire. In 1955 Jaguar planned to build 100 D-types. With only 75 completed, Jaguar Classic is now fulfilling the company's original ambition by creating 25 all-new period sports cars. For £1 million you can drive one.

The D-type, which won the Le Mans 24-hour race three times between 1955 and 1957, was powered by the six-cylinder XK engine. Every aspect of the D-types built for customers from 2018 onwards is made to authentic, original specifications. Tim Hannig, Jaguar Land Rover Classic Director, said: "The Jaguar D-type is one of the most iconic and beautiful competition cars of all time, with an outstanding record in the toughest and most challenging races.
a sterling record in the world's toughest motor races. And it's just as spectacular today.

"The opportunity to share the success story of the D-type Continuing with the planned production run in Coventry is one of those unique projects that our world-class experts at Jaguar Land Rover Classic are proud to undertake."

He is biased. But it is true that this recreation - which, judging from earlier continuations, is likely to cost more than 1 million pounds ($1.4 million) - is a special car. Compared to the value of the original, it is practically a bargain.

One that was once owned by Bernie Ecclestonethe eccentric former head of Formula One, was put up for sale last month for $12 million at a Gooding & Co. auction in Arizona. Although it did not sell, Sotheby's sold a 1955 D-Type in 2016 for nearly $22 million. At those prices, this new one, for what will probably cost less than $2 million, is practically a bargain.

The D-Type is so special because of its rarity, race wins and body style. Its shape was strongly influenced by the most advanced aeronautical technology of the time, with a monocoque cockpit made of aluminium alloy plates. At the time, designers followed a practice that originated in aviation: putting the fuel in the tail of the vehicle.

The D-type is the third continuation of Jaguar Classic and complements the six missing Lightweight E-types completed in 2014-15 and nine XKSSs built in 2017-18. The meticulous research of Jaguar Classic experts, with exclusive access to Jaguar's original technical drawings and documents, ensures that each new D-type will be built to the authentic specifications drawn up by competition manager Lofty England and his engineers in the 1950s.

D-Type customers can choose between a Shortnose bodywork from 1955 or a Longnose bodywork from 1956. The technical prototype is the 1956 Longnose specification, recognisable by the extended bonnet, distinctive tail fin behind the driver's head, wide-angle cylinder head and quick-change brake calipers.
The interior will have the same round speedometer, a thin wooden and metal-perforated steering wheel (with the steering wheel on the right, of course) and a four-speed manual transmission. The steel on the outside will also be the alloy. At the time of its original debut, the car had 250 horsepower and could reach a top speed of 167 miles per hour.

Kev Riches, Jaguar Classic Engineering Manager, said: "Re-creation of the nine D-type derived XKSSs has been immensely satisfying, and an even greater engineering challenge than the six missing Lightweight E-types, but the lessons we've learned from the XKSS project are ahead of the final 25 D-types. They will all be absolutely correct, down to the smallest detail, exactly as Jaguar's Competitions Department intended. "

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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Khaki versus Chinos. Do you know the difference?

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Khakis came to the western world in the 1800s via the British Indian Army. At the time, the standard British soldier's uniform consisted of white trousers and a bright red, woollen coat. The uniform, which famously earned them the nickname 'red coats', signified power and prestige and successfully intimidated their enemies. However, when Britain expanded into India in the 1800s, their existing uniforms soon became too hot and itchy. Many soldiers were stationed in Punjab, India, where temperatures could reach as high as 48 degrees.
So gave Sir Harry Burnett Lumsdena British military officer stationed in Punjab, instructed his men to take off their red jackets and wear their lighter, softly woven cotton pyjama trousers instead. To better camouflage their white, pleated pyjamas, soldiers dyed them with mud and marazi (a plant native to Punjab), resulting in a drab, beige hue that blended perfectly with their sandy surroundings. They were called 'khakis', which comes either from the Hindi word धूल, meaning 'dust', or the Persian word khāk, meaning 'earth'. No one knows for sure, but it is clear that both terms aptly describe the yellowish beige colour of khakis.

The first khaki trousers were made in 1846, when a British officer serving in the Punjab region traded in his company's warm woollen trousers and jackets for lighter fabrics and looser cuts made from indigenous cotton. The colonial army stationed in India adopted khakis as their uniform trousers by 1848, and it spread throughout the rest of the British Empire until the entire British Army formally adopted the style as their uniform in 1884.

"But what about khaki chinos? Khaki is not only a style of trousers, but also a colour. The stitching on khaki trousers is hidden. Khakis are generally seen as more casual because of the sturdier fabric. Trousers in khaki style have pronounced pockets; chino pockets are hidden.
Hidden pockets add to the stylish nature of a chino. Chinos have flat fronts; khakis can be flat or pleated. This is purely a matter of personal preference, but generally pleated trousers are more traditional. Pleats also help to balance out your proportions if you carry some extra weight in your midsection, or if you are quite broad-shouldered. A flat front is the more modern trouser silhouette that tends to be flattering on a slimmer body type.

Chinos are lightweight, tapered so that they taper down as they fall on the leg, and can be worn with or without cuffs. They generally have a flat front. Chino fabric was a lightweight twill from China (hence the name). The British and French armies both used chinos to make their khaki uniform trousers by the second half of the 19th century. When American soldiers serving in the Philippines during the Spanish-American War needed uniform trousers, they found it cheaper and faster to import from China than from the United States. Their trousers were made simple and tapered, without a pleated front, to save on fabric costs, resulting in a smooth, simple style. The same basic style was used for uniform trousers during the First World War, and returning soldiers from both wars brought them to civilian institutions. University students in particular adopted chinos after WWI, and they have been part of the fashion landscape ever since.

However, enthusiasts have been confused ever since! The basis, however, is that khakis originated as a broad category of military trousers, and a specific subset of these evolved into chinos. Think of khakis as a thicker, more square garment, and of chinos as slimmer, more tapered and neat trousers, you're good!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

 

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