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The remake of the legendary Jaguar D-Type Roadster

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Jaguar Classic production of the iconic D-type racing car is to restart in Coventry 62 years after the last example was built in 1956. The first Jaguar D-type to be assembled by Jaguar Classic, a technical prototype, will make its world debut at this week's Salon Retromobile show in Paris. Just 25 new examples of the D-type will be meticulously hand-built at Jaguar Land Rover Classic Works in Warwickshire. In 1955 Jaguar planned to build 100 D-types. With only 75 completed, Jaguar Classic is now fulfilling the company's original ambition by creating 25 all-new period sports cars. For £1 million you can drive one.

The D-type, which won the Le Mans 24-hour race three times between 1955 and 1957, was powered by the six-cylinder XK engine. Every aspect of the D-types built for customers from 2018 onwards is made to authentic, original specifications. Tim Hannig, Jaguar Land Rover Classic Director, said: "The Jaguar D-type is one of the most iconic and beautiful competition cars of all time, with an outstanding record in the toughest and most challenging races.
a sterling record in the world's toughest motor races. And it's just as spectacular today.

"The opportunity to share the success story of the D-type Continuing with the planned production run in Coventry is one of those unique projects that our world-class experts at Jaguar Land Rover Classic are proud to undertake."

He is biased. But it is true that this recreation - which, judging from earlier continuations, is likely to cost more than 1 million pounds ($1.4 million) - is a special car. Compared to the value of the original, it is practically a bargain.

One that was once owned by Bernie Ecclestonethe eccentric former head of Formula One, was put up for sale last month for $12 million at a Gooding & Co. auction in Arizona. Although it did not sell, Sotheby's sold a 1955 D-Type in 2016 for nearly $22 million. At those prices, this new one, for what will probably cost less than $2 million, is practically a bargain.

The D-Type is so special because of its rarity, race wins and body style. Its shape was strongly influenced by the most advanced aeronautical technology of the time, with a monocoque cockpit made of aluminium alloy plates. At the time, designers followed a practice that originated in aviation: putting the fuel in the tail of the vehicle.

The D-type is the third continuation of Jaguar Classic and complements the six missing Lightweight E-types completed in 2014-15 and nine XKSSs built in 2017-18. The meticulous research of Jaguar Classic experts, with exclusive access to Jaguar's original technical drawings and documents, ensures that each new D-type will be built to the authentic specifications drawn up by competition manager Lofty England and his engineers in the 1950s.

D-Type customers can choose between a Shortnose bodywork from 1955 or a Longnose bodywork from 1956. The technical prototype is the 1956 Longnose specification, recognisable by the extended bonnet, distinctive tail fin behind the driver's head, wide-angle cylinder head and quick-change brake calipers.
The interior will have the same round speedometer, a thin wooden and metal-perforated steering wheel (with the steering wheel on the right, of course) and a four-speed manual transmission. The steel on the outside will also be the alloy. At the time of its original debut, the car had 250 horsepower and could reach a top speed of 167 miles per hour.

Kev Riches, Jaguar Classic Engineering Manager, said: "Re-creation of the nine D-type derived XKSSs has been immensely satisfying, and an even greater engineering challenge than the six missing Lightweight E-types, but the lessons we've learned from the XKSS project are ahead of the final 25 D-types. They will all be absolutely correct, down to the smallest detail, exactly as Jaguar's Competitions Department intended. "

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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Khaki versus Chinos. Do you know the difference?

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Khakis came to the western world in the 1800s via the British Indian Army. At the time, the standard British soldier's uniform consisted of white trousers and a bright red, woollen coat. The uniform, which famously earned them the nickname 'red coats', signified power and prestige and successfully intimidated their enemies. However, when Britain expanded into India in the 1800s, their existing uniforms soon became too hot and itchy. Many soldiers were stationed in Punjab, India, where temperatures could reach as high as 48 degrees.
So gave Sir Harry Burnett Lumsdena British military officer stationed in Punjab, instructed his men to take off their red jackets and wear their lighter, softly woven cotton pyjama trousers instead. To better camouflage their white, pleated pyjamas, soldiers dyed them with mud and marazi (a plant native to Punjab), resulting in a drab, beige hue that blended perfectly with their sandy surroundings. They were called 'khakis', which comes either from the Hindi word धूल, meaning 'dust', or the Persian word khāk, meaning 'earth'. No one knows for sure, but it is clear that both terms aptly describe the yellowish beige colour of khakis.

The first khaki trousers were made in 1846, when a British officer serving in the Punjab region traded in his company's warm woollen trousers and jackets for lighter fabrics and looser cuts made from indigenous cotton. The colonial army stationed in India adopted khakis as their uniform trousers by 1848, and it spread throughout the rest of the British Empire until the entire British Army formally adopted the style as their uniform in 1884.

"But what about khaki chinos? Khaki is not only a style of trousers, but also a colour. The stitching on khaki trousers is hidden. Khakis are generally seen as more casual because of the sturdier fabric. Trousers in khaki style have pronounced pockets; chino pockets are hidden.
Hidden pockets add to the stylish nature of a chino. Chinos have flat fronts; khakis can be flat or pleated. This is purely a matter of personal preference, but generally pleated trousers are more traditional. Pleats also help to balance out your proportions if you carry some extra weight in your midsection, or if you are quite broad-shouldered. A flat front is the more modern trouser silhouette that tends to be flattering on a slimmer body type.

Chinos are lightweight, tapered so that they taper down as they fall on the leg, and can be worn with or without cuffs. They generally have a flat front. Chino fabric was a lightweight twill from China (hence the name). The British and French armies both used chinos to make their khaki uniform trousers by the second half of the 19th century. When American soldiers serving in the Philippines during the Spanish-American War needed uniform trousers, they found it cheaper and faster to import from China than from the United States. Their trousers were made simple and tapered, without a pleated front, to save on fabric costs, resulting in a smooth, simple style. The same basic style was used for uniform trousers during the First World War, and returning soldiers from both wars brought them to civilian institutions. University students in particular adopted chinos after WWI, and they have been part of the fashion landscape ever since.

However, enthusiasts have been confused ever since! The basis, however, is that khakis originated as a broad category of military trousers, and a specific subset of these evolved into chinos. Think of khakis as a thicker, more square garment, and of chinos as slimmer, more tapered and neat trousers, you're good!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

 

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About the signet ring.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Ah, the signet ring. Heavily discussed and criticised. Coat of arms or initials?
Worn with class or ostentatious? And is it real or fake?
For some people just an accessory, for others very meaningful. How come?
Let's take a closer look at what this signet ring actually is.

Traditionally, the signet ring was or is worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand. For most people, this is the left hand. Businessmen, politicians and nobility used it to print their 'seal' on important documents, or to seal them. Hot wax would be dripped on the document, and the ring would be sealed by pushing an imprint of the coat of arms into it. Clearly recognisable as authentic to everyone, especially in earlier times when the majority could not even read. This type of ring soon became a traditional symbol of family solidarity. The use of seals can be dated back to the Mesopotamians, and so via the Egyptians, who incorporated it into a ring, to the Romans. The signet ring has therefore existed much longer than coats of arms or the emergence of heraldry.

With the rise of the bourgeoisie, it quickly gained popularity. If the middle classes did not have their own coat of arms, they used it anyway, either blank or with
initials, in order to appear sophisticated. If you were very wealthy in the 18th century, a beautiful stone could also be incorporated. The most popular stones were rubies, amethysts, blood stones and cornelians. They were mainly forged in gold, and from the 19th century platinum also became popular.

Nowadays, we also see signet rings being used, for example, to show membership of a certain club, university, regiment or fraternity such as the Freemasons. If one simply likes this kind of ring, and does not have a coat of arms, or does not want to show off the family coat of arms, it can be replaced by e.g. initials, or even just have a plain white surface.

- The Pope has worn a signet ring called 'The Ring of the Fisherman' ('Piscatory Ring') since about 1265, with an effigy engraving of Saint Peter.

- When the Pope dies, this ring is ceremonially destroyed by hitting a cross into it with a hammer.

- The study of seals is known as sigillography or sphragistics.

- In the British Museum in London is a ring ring with the name and function of an Egyptian high priest.

- If the bearer died, the ring was also destroyed to prevent counterfeiting or plagiarism of the noble seal.

-Traditionally, we can state as a basic rule that one does not wear a ring to which one is not entitled. Signet ring etiquette means that this is not acceptable because of the high value placed on the meaning. You must earn the right, and inappropriate to wear a symbol of something you are not or have not earned.

-And then there is the discussion about how the ring will be worn. With the image towards oneself or towards the outside world?
Towards oneself as a daily reminder of the meaning, or towards the outside world to be recognisable?

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

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Scott. The iconic writer's bag reissued by France's Bleu De Chauffe.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Writing about a writer when you are not one yourself. Not so obvious. But hopefully we will all read a bit more. With these uncertain Corona times, we sit at home and inside more. And after watching all the Netflix, isn't a good book what everyone can enjoy?

Well, a book is written by a writer. He stows away his stuff in a bag that is fairly typical. Many models resemble each other in style and size. Many brands and many models, though. And just as there are qualities among writers, there are qualities among bags. Practically all of them have one thing in common, they last or will last a lifetime, and it is getting harder and harder for the owner to part with them.
The kind of bag you become one with. The kind of bag that you hope can tell its own stories.... An authentic bag!

An iconic writer's bag is that of the American writer F. Scott Fitzgerald. The bag has had a long and hard life, has been repaired several times, and famous manuscripts have originated and been kept in it. A writer's bag is also a very nice thing, all the more so because it is not just any bag, but a bag with a purpose.

"An author ought to write for the youth of his own generation, the critics of the next, and the schoolmaster of ever afterward". - F. Scott Fitzgerald.

We are discussing a French reissue, a contemporary replica as it were, inspired by the old bag of Mr. Scott Fitzgerald. We assume that a good bag contributes to the writing quality of its owner. This craftsmanship is therefore an ode to this famous writer.

"The easiest way to get a reputation is to go outside the fold, shout around for a few years as a violent atheist or a dangerous radical, and then crawl back to the shelter." - F. Scott Fitzgerald

As I appreciate both good writers and traditional craftsmanship, this bag from French company Blue de Chauffe immediately caught my attention. And not just for its stylish looks and nice quality, but especially because there is quite a nice story attached to it. And so the story goes...:

Evan is an American. For the birthday of his girlfriend, who is a writer, he is looking for an original present. He is thinking of a handbag or something similar. While looking online for a while, he suddenly stumbles upon a very unique item; Scott Fitzgerald's personal bag, with his name printed on it, above the address of the former publishing house that printed his books.

Evan, who had been a fan of Blue de Chauffe for years, contacted the company to ask if it would be possible to personalise one of their own bags like the Scott Fitzgerald writer's bag. At the time, however, it was not possible for them to answer that question, but they loved the idea. So they decided to simply reissue this original writer's bag in its entirety, with the option of personalisation: the initials being embossed into the leather, like a timeless engraving".

Made from the strongest French natural tanned leather, they simply named the bag 'Scott', and it has become a real must-have. Quite elegant, very masculine too, and can be worn on the handle or over the shoulder with a strap. The unconventional twist lock is made of solid brass, which makes the whole look stylish. And, admittedly, there is room for a 13-inch laptop, which is certainly not contemporary, but a large tablet will fit in without a problem. The interior is easily accessible. The 'Blue de Chauffe' label, with handwritten production date and signature of the craftsman who made it, is stitched on a felt inner pocket. A detail for some, but I can certainly appreciate it. An eye for detail!
This inner pocket is even removable: Very handy for smaller items, such as keys, fountain pen and the like!

Handmade in France from vegetarian tanned leather. Nowadays, more than 90% of leather worldwide is tanned with chromium and other chemical components. At Bleu de Chauffe, however, they take a different approach. The natural leather-tanning process ensures better quality ('sustainability' is not an empty concept here), is very pleasant to the touch and has the advantage that the leather acquires a really beautiful patina over the years.
The more you use the bag, the more beautiful it will become.
Not a hip, slick designer bag, but a stylish yet sturdy men's bag! A bag for the connoisseur.

And that is a special bag, which after a number of years, has its own story to tell. Like the original bag of Mr. Fitzgerald himself:

  • Would that bag know that Francis Scott was a poor student and miserable at spelling?
  • That he started writing diligently just before his military service for fear of not having a legacy if he was killed?
  • That 'The Great Gatsby', which had been in this bag, would not have its great success until after the author's death?
  • That its owner was a close friend of that other famous writer, Ernest Hemingway, who, however, found Scott's wife Zelda to be a hindrance to his writing potential?
  • That its owner, although not without wealth, never owned a house and moved every few years?
  • That he would be taken between 1920 and 1940 to New York City, Connecticut, Minnesota, Long Island, Paris, the French Riviera, Rome, Los Angeles, Delaware, Switzerland, Baltimore and North Carolina?

If only bags could speak, you would think!

Dimensions: 38 cm x 28.5 cm x 7 cm / suitable for laptop or tablet up to 13-inch. The colour is applied by hand, and therefore varies slightly from bag to bag. Handcrafted!

A piece of craftsmanship to cherish. A bag for life, why not make it an heirloom?

If you don't have the time to read 'The Great Gatsbywatch one of the famous film versions, and in between watch the bag.
You may get a better understanding of F. Scott Fitzgerald from it, and appreciate the craftsmanship of this bag.

More information about the bag and the producer can be found on the website www.bleu-de-chauffe.com. A French company that understands and feels quality, natural materials, and, as a tribute to a great writer, at the request of a customer, creates a bag, with the respect it deserves, for life!

No matter which bag you choose, as an attaché case or as a work bag, an authentic writer's bag shows the world that you are not susceptible to trends and hypes. That you don't allow yourself to be trapped by designers or fashionable. After all, you have nothing to prove. You are who you are, you undoubtedly have a fascinating story, and you go for the real thing.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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JFK. Presidential style icon.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Undeniably, we can state that the charismatic John Fitzgerald Kennedy or JFK, was one of the handsomest, and certainly best-dressed of all American Presidents. But much also has to do with his personal style. As former alumni of both Princeton as Harvard he was, evidently, also an adept of the well-known preppy Ivy-League style that characterises it.

He was therefore a loyal supporter of chinos, penny loafers, grey jumpers and the well-known oxford shirt. As president, however, and in office, things were a bit more formal. But overall, we can say that he exuded a certain air of cool. Let us discuss some of these style characteristics here. Of course, we have to translate these into a contemporary framework, but the classics remain the classics, of course. We cannot discuss everything here, but we will stick to some basics.

Wear the right jacket or suit.
It is well known that JFK brought both the blue blazer and the Harris Tweed sports jacket to the White House.
His suits were always grey or dark blue, sometimes with a fine pinstripe. Mid-collar, 2-button, soft shoulders without padding (a personal modification of the classic Ivy League style), (usually) slanted pockets,
with or without a flap, and, strange but true, no centre or side slits on the back.
But then again, that is something typically American. A simple white handkerchief or pocket square completed the look.
Discreetly folded, with 1 point visible.

Most of his jackets and suits came from Brooks Brothersan American icon.
He was even such a fan of it that he had personalised umbrellas made for the witnesses at his wedding in 1953,
with their initials embroidered on them. According to 'witnesses', he even wore dark blue boxer shorts of the brand, with his initials on them.
And yes, you have noticed, he also closed the bottom button of his jacket. Oh well, as POTUS you are apparently allowed to do that.

 

The versatility of the dressy white shirt.
Their nail-white shirts contrasted well with his suits and jackets. White is also a logical colour, because it goes with everything, and can always be used in any combination. The collars had short points, and were even spread, and the sleeves were always finished with double cuffs.

Some of his dress shirts, like the one we saw when LIFE following him on his campaign tour in 1960, even had the JFK monogram on the left breast. Being president of the most powerful nation in the world also gave him some advantages.

For example, he wore gold 14-carat cufflinks with the presidential seal at the front and his signature and initials at the back. He regularly gave them out to friends or visiting heads of state. Some are even reaching the market now and are being sold or offered for around $10,000. A real gadget for the enthusiast, I would say.

Trousers!
Whether on a golf course or sailing in Maine, JFK had a strong preference for white trousers, preferably still showing his ankles. He preferred to wear a wool cardigan over an Oxford shirt. Combine this with penny loafers or deck shoes, and you have an ad
by Ralph Lauren. White trousers in summer may seem a bit cliché to many, but in style they are very common. Worn by other younger and older style icons, such as Harry Styles, Pierce Brosnan or Daniel Craig, they are a common sight not only in the Mediterranean region, but also at e.g. nautical events worldwide.

But enough about the white trousers. More general now! Always without pleats, with turn-ups, and only a small or a 'kink' on the shoes.
Usually combined with a black leather belt with a classic rectangular buckle. The belt was rarely visible because he usually kept his jackets closed when standing up. Just as it should be. As a president, he always wore socks or stockings adapted to the suit, which also has a lengthening effect.

The trousers, with fairly narrow legs for that time, were always well ironed with a clear crease. His chinos or slacks, on the other hand, and his white trousers, were always creased. He wore this really casually, usually without socks, or with brightly coloured socks. Considering his preppy background, this makes sense.

The classic Wayfarer, or is it not?
Our friend JFK was more than regularly buckled in with sunglasses on. Most suspect they are the classic Wayfarer by Ray-Ban goes.
The model in general does indeed resemble it, and is also typical of the time. And, very importantly, it also fits the shape of his face perfectly.
Of course, as a dedicated sailor, he often wore sunglasses, but this did not stop when he landed.
He preferred a nice tortoiseshell or horn design. And we have to admit, he looks just fine with it.
A trait he was all too aware of.

To return to the Wayfarer story.... Providence Optical did an extensive research, and could identify 3 different glasses: American Optical TC74-51, Cabana TS 2505, and Universal Optical "Mansfield Square" glasses.
Voila, now we know that again! Of course he also wore military Aviators, like at the Naval Academy in 1961.

Ties.
He kept them simple. Either striped or geometric, and of course always in natural silk. We do note, however, that he wore the striped rep-ties the English way. So the stripes in the opposite direction than what was usual in the USA. His ties were also slightly narrower than what was customary at the time. Many of his ties were blue. And this will also have its reasons.

Blue has a soothing effect. It radiates peace, creates trust, inspires cooperation and constructive thinking.
It may be just a theory, but the fact is that he often wore them, and was a peaceful, easy-going president.
Off-duty, we know that he often wore bow ties, another Ivy trademark. Especially beautiful combined with tweed of course.

Put something nautical in your outfit.
JFK has been an avid sailor since childhood, and this is reflected in the rest of his life.
As he himself once said: 'It is an interesting biological fact, that all of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and, therefore, we have salt in our blood, our sweat, and in our tears. We are tied to the ocean."

And of course we're not just talking about the classic red jacket, nylon or otherwise.
Unfortunately, it is very common nowadays in dubious quality and design.
In his scarce free time, he was rarely to be found on land. His personal sailing boat, the 25-footer 'Victura', which he got from his father on his 15th birthday, was his favourite.

We see this in his outfits: Nautical blue polo shirts, navy blazers with copper or gold buttons, pale jumpers, white trousers, chinos, boat shoes or white canvas trainers, cable jumpers, and of course sunglasses.
He knew how to combine it all just perfectly.


What time is it?
One of the accessories that JFK loved were watches. Flat, rectangular and made of gold was his preference. With a brown alligator strap.
The Omega "Ultra Thin" watch of the President, called "Stockdale watch", in 18 carat gold with engraving: "President of the United States John F. Kennedy from his friend Grant", was worn at his inauguration in 1961.
The watch is now in the possession of the Omega museum, at the brand's headquarters in Biel, Switzerland.

Once you have found the watch that suits you best, it will be inseparable. Therefore, it does not have to be a luxury watch.
Often, 'less is more'. A classic model, easy to combine, and which you feel good about.

In general, his taste was not so refined, but he knew what looked good on him, felt good in it, and that is what he radiated.
And that is the most important thing.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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What is that pattern called again? Suits and their fabric.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

We have already spoken at length about the pinstripe and lime stripe, but what about other well-known fabric patterns for a (tailor-made) suit? Apart from the striped suits, there are of course the plain fabrics, which do not need any additional explanation as far as the motif is concerned, because it is not there. But there are other common variants. We discuss the most well-known ones here.

The Glen Plaid, or Prince of Wales (Prince de Galles)

The name of the fabric comes from 'Glen Urquhart plaid', also known as the 'Glenurquhart check'. Also known on the mainland as the 'Prince de Galles' or 'Prince of Wales' check. Its origins can be found in the Glenurquhart Valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland. The motif became popular with the Duke of Windsor when he was Prince of Wales, which explains the other name. In other words, we can say that it is not a Welsh pattern, but truly Scottish.

It is (mostly) a woolen fabric, with a woven pattern of overlapping large and small checks. The pattern is best described as 2 dark and 2 light stripes alternating with 4 dark and 4 light stripes.
This gives a diamond pattern of irregular squares. Usually, in the most classic form, a black and white combination of yarns is used, which gives it a grey appearance. In exceptional cases, a red, green or blue yarn is incorporated, which draws a larger but subtle diamond in the pattern.

President Ronald Reagan was considered un-presidential in a grey-blue Glen plaid during a European trip in 1982. And Cary Grant wore the iconic suit in the 1959 American spy-thriller 'North by Northwest'.

The 'Bird's Eye', also called 'œil de perdrix'.

I do not know what the correct Dutch name is, and it is also very difficult to find. The pattern looks like small diamonds or bird-eyes because of the very repetitive weaving method. Originally in cotton or linen, it is a very strong fabric, and therefore mainly used in men's clothes.

Perfect for formal wear, especially in summer. This is because the fabric can be made very light and therefore has a fine breathability. The cotton variant in particular is perfect for a spring or summer suit.

You can easily clean the fabric with an ordinary clothes brush and some steam to remove the creases. However, you should always hang the suit or jacket on a good hanger, especially the looser varieties, to ensure that the shape is preserved.

 

The Cock's Foot: "Pied-de-Poule" or "Houndstooth".

The motif consists of broken diamonds, or abstract quadrangular shapes. Classically made in black and white, but also very beautiful in other colours. If one has a very fine small version of the 'houndstooth', it is called a puppy-tooth. The French name is inspired by the imprint of a bird's foot. The method of weaving makes it a very strong fabric.

The pied de poule motif first appeared in the West in the 1930s. In the Netherlands, pied de poule is called hound's-tooth or windmill motif, in England it is called hound's-tooth, cock's-tread or crow's-foot design and in Germany it is called Hahnenschritt.

The motif is introduced during the weaving process by means of a twill weave* in combination with a certain sequence of colours in the warp and weft threads.

Edward VIII of the United Kingdom often wore suits with this motif, which quickly increased its popularity.

 

Herringbone.

The herringbone pattern dates back to the Roman Empire, where it was used in buildings and roads. This interlocking paving system is built on a base of crushed stone, which cleverly absorbs the pressure of traffic and footsteps, making it extremely stable and durable.

This innovative way of creating roads was revolutionary because cultivating a powerful infrastructure of Roman roads was vital for the preservation and development of the Roman state.

Herringbone can also be traced back to ancient Egyptian jewellery worn by the elite.
However, the earliest herringbone fabrics were found in ancient Italy. How appropriate that herringbone is now an essential fabric used in the making of menswear! This distinctive fabric design also found its way into historic Irish textiles, which were often used in rustic tweed suits.

The herringbone pattern, usually in will, is very popular for suits and "outerwear".
We find the pattern frequently in Tweed, for example.

The classic windowpane

Just like the English origins of the brands that made it their leitmotif, the tartan, or rather the
sees the beginning of its history in Scotland. The endless combinations of warp and weft of this woollen fabric gave life to the colours of the clans that made up Scottish society in the sixteenth century and to their traditional kilts.
It then became the uniform of official occasions under the reign of King George IV in 1822, but no one could have imagined how far this vicar would go.

The windowpane has gained a lot of popularity in recent years, especially among younger suit wearers.
The big advantage is that the windowpane makes a skinny man look a bit firmer, and the heavier man look a bit slimmer.

The pattern is also very versatile in its combinations, and even if you are colour-blind you can always get away with it. They are usually not perfect squares, but rather rectangles. So they are slightly longer than wide. This enhances the optical effect, by the way.

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

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The General, the reinvention of the Ray-Ban Aviator.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Everyone knows it, the 'Aviator', the ultimate classic aviator glasses. Iconic Americana, widely copied but never equalled. A favourite of film heroes both on and off the set, it is still the first choice of many pilots worldwide. Well, a new icon is born. Inspired by this timelessly cool 'Aviator', we get 'The General',
Uncompromising, tough... and certainly shameless. A classic revised for the 21ste century.
The General' reinforces the classic lines of the Aviator for a sharper silhouette that perfectly reflects its retro confidence. A bold iconic model. Refreshing too. With 'The General', every outfit is instantly classic, just like the shape that inspired it. But wear it subtly, to embellish e.g. a white t-shirt and jeans. Or wear it tough with a khaki green cardigan and bottoms, then you suddenly have the look that is just as strong as the shape of the glasses.
The General's solid, rugged design deliberately has a military look. This is also reinforced by the double bridge, which of course is reminiscent of the original Aviator. However, it makes a statement in its own right. It's retro yet modern, and doesn't grab your attention, it just asks for it!
Created in 1987 as an ode to General Douglas MacArthur, it has recently been redesigned in a more modern, up-to-date version. Available in a range of colours, frames in shiny or matt, there is always a model to suit everyone. Whether as normal glasses with optical lenses, or as sunglasses.
The frame is available in classic black, military green, or copper colour. The lenses are even available in 8 colours. No matter which combination you choose, there is always a nice version for you. See also: www.ray-ban.com/netherlands.

Douglas MacArthur,
born January 26, 1880 in Little Rock, Arkansas, US and died April 5, 1964 in Washington, D.C., was an American general who commanded American troops during World War II in the Southwest Pacific, commanded Japan after the war during the subsequent occupation and led United Nations troops during the first nine months of the Korean War. In 1944, he was awarded the rank of General with five stars as distinguishing marks, one of only five American five-star generals and one of only eight men to hold that title. Although MacArthur's character was controversial, he possessed exceptional leadership skills.
Apart from being considered a style icon, he was also a very charismatic man with many qualities. He is still praised for his keen strategic insight.


Freemason .˙.
General Douglas MacArthur was, by great exception, exalted as Master Mason (Mason-at-Sight) by Samuel Hawthorne,
Grand Master of the Phillipines on 17 January 1936 and thus attached to Manila Lodge No. 1. He received the 32nd Degree of the AASR, Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite in Manila. That same year, on 8 December 1947, he received the 33rd Degree of Honour at the American Embassy in Tokyo.
He was also Shriner at the Nile Shrine Temple in Seattle.

About Ray-Ban

Ray-Ban is originally a sunglasses brand, founded in 1937 by the American company Bausch & Lomb. The brand is best known for its Wayfarer and Aviator models. Classics that have not become obsolete since the brand was founded. Bausch & Lomb lenses also enjoy worldwide appreciation and recognition for their quality.
Throughout its 80-plus year history, Ray-Ban has pioneered the music and arts, enhancing celebrity culture and creating the power that rock and film stars wield over global fashion. From James Dean to Audrey Hepburn to Michael Jackson, Ray-Ban has proved indispensable to cultural icons who don't want to be seen - but do want to stand out. So it is fair to say that Ray-Ban has undeniably left, and continues to leave, a strong mark on cultural history.
More information on www.ray-ban.com

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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Shoe care for the Gentleman.

Every gentleman has a few pairs of good-looking and especially decent dress shoes. Most likely these have been a sound investment, and as we all know, investments need to be protected. Beautiful polished shoes do not only complete your wardrobe, but maintenance also extends the life span of your favourite pair of footwear.

For many it is a necessary evil, but you can also make it a weekly or fortnightly ritual.
You will notice that after a few times it will be a real pleasure. A nicely polished and well maintained shoe also has to do with self-respect. Leather is an organic substance, just like human skin. If you let it dry out, it will wear faster and get ugly creases and cracks.
Therefore, use the best products you can afford for maintenance, i.e. of natural origin.

  • Your good shoes deserve cedar wood shoe trees. Not only do they ensure that the shoe keeps its shape after wearing, because they dry 'in shape', but the wood also has a drying and deodorising effect. It will not only absorb sweat, but also acids and salt.
    Always put the shoe trees in the shoes immediately after wearing them.
  • If you do not have shoe trees, you can stuff the shoe with newspaper before polishing. This keeps them in shape.
  • Cover your work surface in advance with old newspaper. Polishing shoes can be a dirty job.
  • Decide in advance whether you are going to use a brush or an old T-shirt. For polishing, the brush is best, for in between I personally prefer a t-shirt. This gives more feeling with the leather and the shoe.
  • Use a lint-free soft cloth for the final finish.
  • As mentioned before, use natural products as much as possible. Products based on beeswax are preferred. They are slightly more expensive but well worth the money. And they smell better too! Dried-out crumbly shoe cream is a no-no.
  • Make sure you have all the products and the right colours ready before you start. I also recommend that you treat several pairs at a time.
    This will get rid of them all at once and also save you time.
  • You can obtain extra gloss after all the steps by rubbing the leather with an old nylon stocking. Be careful not to do this on the creases or they may get a crackled effect from the extra shine afterwards. So only on the nose and contre-fort, the heel piece.
  • When applying the coloured wax or cream, never forget to apply it to the sides of the soles. Pay special attention to the front, and don't forget the heel. The heel is a weak point for many men: driving a car makes the heels dull and grey due to the position of the foot, especially the right one, on the accelerator.

First of all: Clean up!

Before you start polishing your shoes, they should of course be cleaned thoroughly. First brush all the coarse dirt off the shoes.
Don't forget to do the seams as well as the edge where the leather is attached to the sole. This can be done with a toothbrush.

Dust, mud, salt and other accumulated dirt have no chance of being fixed by the new polish and/or wax to be applied. Any remaining grains of sand could also scratch the surface when you apply new coats. This is also the time to remove the laces from the shoes. You protect them and avoid getting shoe polish on them, which will give you dirty hands when you tie the shoes afterwards.

Stubborn dirt can best be wiped off with a damp cloth, and in case there are already too many old wax layers on the surface, you can use an adapted 'cleanser'. This lotion, which is adapted to each individual, also ensures that the pores open up again. As a result, the new layer of cream will penetrate the leather more easily. Then let the shoes dry for at least 10 minutes.

Step 2: Feeding.

After thorough cleaning, which in any case, together with wearing the shoes, has put a strain on them, we need to nourish the leather again. Gently rub the nourishing lotion or cream into the leather in not too large quantities. You can do this with a brush or, as I do, a soft cotton cloth such as an old t-shirt. Rub in small circles until completely absorbed. This will ensure that the leather gets a rejuvenating cure, as it were. The perfect good basis. Let this also soak in for about 10 minutes. Make sure that no residue is left on the leather.
Everything has to be spread nicely and evenly over the whole shoe.

Step 3: Brushing out

After the lotion or cream has rested and been absorbed, the shoes should be brushed out for the first time. Preferably use a soft brush with horsehair. It is sufficient to brush briefly and firmly over the entire shoe. You will notice that the natural products already make the leather shine.

Step 4: Shoe polish and/or wax!

With a soft brush, or like me, a soft cloth, we now gently but thoroughly rub the coloured cream into the leather on the shoes.
Make sure that everything is applied evenly and that no thicker stripes are left behind. They are difficult to remove once they have dried.

A cream is easier to apply than a wax, which is harder by nature. The main advantage of a wax is the extra protection and shine afterwards. A combination of both is also possible. If necessary, use a cotton bud for places that are difficult to reach, such as the seams and where the sole is attached to the shoe. Here you can be quite generous.

Leave the cream or wax to penetrate for at least 15 minutes. This will allow it to set in and on the leather.

The final step

Take your horsehair brush and brush the entire shoe to the desired shine. If you want, you can rub in a little more and polish again. Tastes differ, of course. It is a fact that several thin layers are better and more beautiful than one thick layer.
The polishing itself is done with short, quick strokes. Because of the heat that is generated during this process, the products will be absorbed better into the leather. Now put the laces back in, and you have a pair of shoes worthy of a gentleman again!

 

 

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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Caviar, the Black Gold.

With the holidays approaching, and the catering industry closed in these days, the success of your party depends on a caterer or your own abilities. And not everyone is a hero in the kitchen. But with a luxury product like caviar, the famous sturgeon eggs, you can easily conjure up a wondrous dish.

The unique thing about caviar is that it does not need any complicated preparation. Even in the simplest combinations, with basic ingredients, the product is at its best. Therefore I would like to share some caviar facts and recipes with you.

Caviar consists of the unfertilised eggs of the sturgeon. The name "caviar" originates from the Persian خاگآور(Khag-avar). The first caviar eaters were the Persians (Iranians) who believed that caviar would improve their stamina and potency.

Depending on the type of sturgeon whose eggs are, one distinguishes between:

  • caviar of sturgeon
    • beluga caviar (silvery to black colour and shown here on the right)
    • asetrak caviar (black to greenish grey)
    • sevruga caviar (dark grey)
    • caluga caviar (Siberian huso) from the Siberian River Amur.
  • imitation caviar (not from sturgeon and cannot in principle bear the name "caviar")
    • Lumpfish caviar (red or black; colour obtained by natural colouring)
    • Alaska wild salmon caviar (red in colour)
    • Trout caviar (orange in colour)

Below you can find some recipes, because the classic blinis with caviar are just a snack!

First of all, the 'Pomme Moscovite'. Once the favourite of the Russian Tsars, hence the name.

INGREDIENTS for 4 people:

  • 500 grams small potatoes
  • 1 small box of caviar
  • 3 tbsp sour cream
  • 1 tbsp chopped chives
  • Possibly a few drops of lemon juice
  • Pepper

PREPARED:

Put the potatoes, unpeeled, with some olive oil in an oven dish. Put this dish in a preheated oven at 220°C, so that the potatoes 'pop'. Take them out and let them cool down a little. Cut off the top of the potatoes and hollow them out with a small spoon.

With what you take out of the potatoes we make the filling: Mix it with the sour cream, the chives, a few drops of lemon juice and season with some pepper.
Fill the potatoes back up and finish with a spoonful of caviar.
There you go, the simple earthy tuber has had a more than decent upgrade, and is now, quite rightly, an imperial appetiser.

If you prefer a main course, I think of a pasta, which can be made into something very special by using caviar.

Pasta with smoked salmon and caviar:

INGREDIENTS:

  • 450 gr fresh Linguini or Fettuccini
  • 250 ml cream
  • 120 to 200 g smoked salmon
  • A pinch of nutmeg
  • A pinch of black pepper. Or to taste.
  • Your pot of caviar, of course!

PREPARATION:

  • Cook the pasta in 3 to 4 minutes until al dente.
  • In another pan, heat the cream, with nutmeg and black pepper.
  • Add the salmon in strips.
  • Drain the pasta, mix with the sauce and finish with a few spoonfuls of caviar!
  • Buon appetito!

Another favourite of mine is the combination with meat. Prepare a classic 'Steak Tartare'and finish off with caviar. Can it get any simpler?
But caviar can also provide a taste sensation at the table for breakfast. How about a divine scrambled egg?
Top your scrambled eggs with some cream, fill the egg shell with it again and finish off with some caviar.
And whether you are going to use real or imitation caviar,.... Let it taste good!

Please note:

  • Keep the caviar absolutely cold until the moment of serving.
  • Use a mother-of-pearl spoon, or a plastic one, until serving. Metals will oxidise if they come into contact with the caviar, and negatively affect the taste.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

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The difference between the Pinstripe and the Pinstripes

We all know the so-called pinstripes and the pinstripe! The exceptional cliché look of Wall Street investment bankers, mafiosi in films and of course The Great Gatsby. But also the classic suit of your father or grandfather, or you have one yourself. There is a difference, however, important or not, but 'details matter'. I would be happy to explain the subtle difference between the pinstripe and the pinstripe.

The classic striped suit is generally regarded as the business suit par excellence. It is recognised as the outfit of the power-dresser, especially in the double breasted version. It is therefore the quickest and easiest way to look top-notch right away.

Stripes come in all shapes, sizes and colours. The thickness, however, is what determines the name and we will discuss that here.

PINSTRIPES

Probably the most common and well-known is the pinstripe. This is a single thin stripe that gives the impression of a small short needle stitch. A single twisted thread is used to create the stripe. The distance between the stripes can vary.

The pinstripe is a fine stripe, but very pronounced. According to Alan Flusser in his well-known book 'Dressing the Man', pinstripes are "fine stripes in the width of a needle resluting in the use of white, grey or other colour, or other yarns, in a twisted sequence of worsted..."
And Hardy Amies writes in his lexicon 'ABC of Men's Fashion' that pinstripes are actually "a series of dots". Both are excellent descriptions, but they do not contradict each other.

So pinstripes are often woven into the cloth separately from the background weave on a Dobby loom, contrary to a simple part of the background weave.
It's added to the cloth in on top of the base colour. So the pinstripe is more defined and keeps it from blurring into the cloth. A nice variation on the pinstripe is the bead stripe, also called a beaded pinstripe or a rain pinstripe, which looks like a line of tiny beads spaced apart'.

References to the 'pinstripe' can be found in Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales', where the 'Sergeant at the Law' is described as wearing
"a homely parti-coloured coat girt with a silken belt of pin-stripe stuff". Pinstripes have been found in men's clothing since bein of the 19th century.
They were used by the London banks to identify their employees. Each bank had its stripes, and the space between the stripes indicated their rank or function. Originally, only the trousers were striped, but when the custom was adopted in America in the 20th century, they were also used in the jackets. And so the pinstripe suit was born!

CRIME TRIPS

A pinstripe is traditionally woven from about 2 to 5 threads wide and therefore resembles the stripe that a tailor puts on the fabric with his tailor's chalk. Hence the name. Pinstripes are mixed in with the other yarns, which makes the effect less distinctive.
It all looks a bit more vague than the pronounced pinstripe. Hardy Amies describes the difference as "'pin' stripes ... look very 'set' when compared to 'chalk' stripes, the outlines of which are blurred and thus blend with the background." And this is suddenly the best description.

The pinstripe is wrongly attributed the reputation of corporate conformity. It is true that it is synonymous with the bankers and other liberal professions such as notaries, lawyers, etc., but its roots run deeper as the uniformity found among the middle classes in the late 18the and beginning 19the century.

Named for its soft look, the pinstripe was adopted by modern white-collar workers working in the cities from around 1910 onwards and thus became the uniform of the big heavy business. Originally, it was even only allowed in British and American companies to have the stripe wider than 1 inch, for senior management. Later it was adopted by the Mafia to make it clear that they were above the ordinary mortal.

 

 

HOW DO WE WEAR THESE STRIPES?

A pinstripe or pinstripe suit can and will certainly spice up your wardrobe.

  • If you're going for the traditional British look, opt for the darkest variety you can find: A deep ink blue, a 'grey as coal', and combine it with a plain white shirt, and a bright tie to create contrast. In any case, it will make a powerful statement.
  • The version with centre button, 2 buttons, is modern, but if you want to go for the cutting edge of tradition, choose a double breasted suit.
  • If you prefer it more relaxed, go for the less pronounced pinstripe.
  • As a general rule, we can say that these stripes are only worn as a costume. But casual is becoming more and more acceptable.
  • Be especially careful with stripes in the tie or shirt. You don't want to become a signboard for all the possible stripes on the market. And if the stripes have the same width, it will all go wrong. But that goes without saying.
  • With a pinstripe, you always wear a tie.
  • The most classic look is in a snow-white shirt and dark or bright tie. Then you are on the safe side anyway.
  • Leave patterned shirts for what they are. They certainly don't belong on a striped suit!
  • Keep it simple with accessories. Pochette or tie pin? Certainly not both at the same time!
  • But who am I? And aren't rules there to be challenged?

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

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