Undeniably, we can state that the charismatic John Fitzgerald Kennedy or JFK, was one of the handsomest, and certainly best-dressed of all American Presidents. But much also has to do with his personal style. As former alumni of both Princeton as Harvard he was, evidently, also an adept of the well-known preppy Ivy-League style that characterises it.
He was therefore a loyal supporter of chinos, penny loafers, grey jumpers and the well-known oxford shirt. As president, however, and in office, things were a bit more formal. But overall, we can say that he exuded a certain air of cool. Let us discuss some of these style characteristics here. Of course, we have to translate these into a contemporary framework, but the classics remain the classics, of course. We cannot discuss everything here, but we will stick to some basics.
Wear the right jacket or suit.
It is well known that JFK brought both the blue blazer and the Harris Tweed sports jacket to the White House.
His suits were always grey or dark blue, sometimes with a fine pinstripe. Mid-collar, 2-button, soft shoulders without padding (a personal modification of the classic Ivy League style), (usually) slanted pockets,
with or without a flap, and, strange but true, no centre or side slits on the back.
But then again, that is something typically American. A simple white handkerchief or pocket square completed the look.
Discreetly folded, with 1 point visible.
Most of his jackets and suits came from Brooks Brothersan American icon.
He was even such a fan of it that he had personalised umbrellas made for the witnesses at his wedding in 1953,
with their initials embroidered on them. According to 'witnesses', he even wore dark blue boxer shorts of the brand, with his initials on them.
And yes, you have noticed, he also closed the bottom button of his jacket. Oh well, as POTUS you are apparently allowed to do that.
The versatility of the dressy white shirt.
Their nail-white shirts contrasted well with his suits and jackets. White is also a logical colour, because it goes with everything, and can always be used in any combination. The collars had short points, and were even spread, and the sleeves were always finished with double cuffs.
Some of his dress shirts, like the one we saw when LIFE following him on his campaign tour in 1960, even had the JFK monogram on the left breast. Being president of the most powerful nation in the world also gave him some advantages.
For example, he wore gold 14-carat cufflinks with the presidential seal at the front and his signature and initials at the back. He regularly gave them out to friends or visiting heads of state. Some are even reaching the market now and are being sold or offered for around $10,000. A real gadget for the enthusiast, I would say.
Trousers!
Whether on a golf course or sailing in Maine, JFK had a strong preference for white trousers, preferably still showing his ankles. He preferred to wear a wool cardigan over an Oxford shirt. Combine this with penny loafers or deck shoes, and you have an ad
by Ralph Lauren. White trousers in summer may seem a bit cliché to many, but in style they are very common. Worn by other younger and older style icons, such as Harry Styles, Pierce Brosnan or Daniel Craig, they are a common sight not only in the Mediterranean region, but also at e.g. nautical events worldwide.
But enough about the white trousers. More general now! Always without pleats, with turn-ups, and only a small or a 'kink' on the shoes.
Usually combined with a black leather belt with a classic rectangular buckle. The belt was rarely visible because he usually kept his jackets closed when standing up. Just as it should be. As a president, he always wore socks or stockings adapted to the suit, which also has a lengthening effect.
The trousers, with fairly narrow legs for that time, were always well ironed with a clear crease. His chinos or slacks, on the other hand, and his white trousers, were always creased. He wore this really casually, usually without socks, or with brightly coloured socks. Considering his preppy background, this makes sense.
The classic Wayfarer, or is it not?
Our friend JFK was more than regularly buckled in with sunglasses on. Most suspect they are the classic Wayfarer by Ray-Ban goes.
The model in general does indeed resemble it, and is also typical of the time. And, very importantly, it also fits the shape of his face perfectly.
Of course, as a dedicated sailor, he often wore sunglasses, but this did not stop when he landed.
He preferred a nice tortoiseshell or horn design. And we have to admit, he looks just fine with it.
A trait he was all too aware of.
To return to the Wayfarer story.... Providence Optical did an extensive research, and could identify 3 different glasses: American Optical TC74-51, Cabana TS 2505, and Universal Optical "Mansfield Square" glasses.
Voila, now we know that again! Of course he also wore military Aviators, like at the Naval Academy in 1961.
Ties.
He kept them simple. Either striped or geometric, and of course always in natural silk. We do note, however, that he wore the striped rep-ties the English way. So the stripes in the opposite direction than what was usual in the USA. His ties were also slightly narrower than what was customary at the time. Many of his ties were blue. And this will also have its reasons.
Blue has a soothing effect. It radiates peace, creates trust, inspires cooperation and constructive thinking.
It may be just a theory, but the fact is that he often wore them, and was a peaceful, easy-going president.
Off-duty, we know that he often wore bow ties, another Ivy trademark. Especially beautiful combined with tweed of course.
Put something nautical in your outfit.
JFK has been an avid sailor since childhood, and this is reflected in the rest of his life.
As he himself once said: 'It is an interesting biological fact, that all of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and, therefore, we have salt in our blood, our sweat, and in our tears. We are tied to the ocean."
And of course we're not just talking about the classic red jacket, nylon or otherwise.
Unfortunately, it is very common nowadays in dubious quality and design.
In his scarce free time, he was rarely to be found on land. His personal sailing boat, the 25-footer 'Victura', which he got from his father on his 15th birthday, was his favourite.
We see this in his outfits: Nautical blue polo shirts, navy blazers with copper or gold buttons, pale jumpers, white trousers, chinos, boat shoes or white canvas trainers, cable jumpers, and of course sunglasses.
He knew how to combine it all just perfectly.
What time is it?
One of the accessories that JFK loved were watches. Flat, rectangular and made of gold was his preference. With a brown alligator strap.
The Omega "Ultra Thin" watch of the President, called "Stockdale watch", in 18 carat gold with engraving: "President of the United States John F. Kennedy from his friend Grant", was worn at his inauguration in 1961.
The watch is now in the possession of the Omega museum, at the brand's headquarters in Biel, Switzerland.
Once you have found the watch that suits you best, it will be inseparable. Therefore, it does not have to be a luxury watch.
Often, 'less is more'. A classic model, easy to combine, and which you feel good about.
In general, his taste was not so refined, but he knew what looked good on him, felt good in it, and that is what he radiated.
And that is the most important thing.
Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com
Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy
