Tuxedo - Black Tie - Smoking ....... Are you going to wear a watch? Or not wearing one? Will you or will you not? And why?
Soon the holidays will arrive, and you should think about it anyway.
This is a question I get asked on a regular basis. Therefore, in order to clear up the confusion, and to separate assumptions from facts...
Let's look at the arguments! Because in the past, it really wasn't possible. And in some environments, it still isn't possible.

CONTRAs:

• It does not look like it! Since the dinner jacket or tuxedo is minimalist in style. Sleek and elegant, but sober. A watch takes the balance out of it, and makes the whole less stylish.
• Etiquette! Perhaps the most important argument! A wristwatch can send the signal to the host of the exclusive event you are attending that, no matter how much effort he or she puts into organising it, you are still losing track of time. This may be seen as disrespectful. Perhaps you have somewhere else to go? All your attention should go to the host or hostess, and the guests.
• You don't need a watch at all, as everyone has a smartphone nowadays anyway.

PROs:

• Well, sometimes you just want to know what time it is.
• You have a very beautiful watch and want to wear it.
• A wristwatch is still better than looking at your smartphone. It is simply less conspicuous to look discreetly at your wrist than to take your smartphone out of your pocket, lift the screen and look at the time display.
• Even contemporary style icons wear a watch on the red carpet. Not that this should be considered a true reference, but it does say something about today's prevailing standards.
• Mr. Alan Flusser, author of many iconic books and style manuals, wrote about which watch, and how to wear it with a dinner jacket. And his books are internationally regarded as the manuals of classic style and class.

However:

Have you ever Fred Astaire in his tuxedo wearing a wristwatch? I don't think so.
And I challenge you all to look more stylish than he ever did! Mr. B. James Bond,
Mr. 007, regarded by many, if not the majority, as an example of contemporary style and class, always wears a wristwatch. Even in combination with a dinner jacket. He even takes it a step further, as it is usually a fairly sturdy and heavy sports watch.
Oh well, as long as it's cinematic. When I myself attend an event, where dinner jacket or dinner jacket is desired or required, I can't help but notice that the rule of 'no watch with dinner jacket', can be considered quite dated. What you do yourself, you can of course distinguish. What is appropriate...'.

So, what now?

So now that we have established what is acceptable and what is not, more or less, it does not mean that we can just do whatever we want. If you still want to come across as stylish and classy, there are still rules that need to be followed. Or let's call it 'friendly advice'.
As a gentleman, or modern-day gentleman, we do follow these rules.....:

• Basic rule: If you have decided to wear a wristwatch, choose as formal a model as possible. If you are going to wear it to the beach or for mountain biking, for example, then definitely don't wear it at night!
• Aesthetics: Roman numerals in place of numbers are increasingly elegant and clearly more formal. The dial is simple, elegant, and not too conspicuous. And you certainly don't need chronographs, day-dates or other complicated world timers. On the other hand, you can still get away with a nice moon-phase display or complication.
• Always wear the wristwatch on the left wrist. In this way, it will not be visible when you greet someone and shake hands.
  Your sleeve and cuff will creep up.
• Ideally, a simple model. The smaller and less conspicuous it is, the more appropriate.
• If you really need to know the time, do it as inconspicuously as possible. Go to the toilets, or retreat to an empty hall or corridor, or go outside for a moment if you have the chance.
• Always do the cuff test first. Make sure the watch is not so big that it sits uncomfortably under the sleeve. Make sure it is worn as unnoticeably as possible.
• Make sure your watch has no audible alarms: no beeping or ringing. Let's not attract attention.
  Especially not during a dinner, theatre performance or concert.
• Let's avoid watches that glow in the dark. This can be considered distracting. And can be very distracting in the theatre, for example.
• Check the time as little as possible, and certainly not during a conversation. Then your watch is not worthy of a glance, out of respect for your conversation partner.
• If you do decide to wear a wristwatch, it should match your cufflinks and any shirt studs. Yellow gold with yellow gold, silver with silver, rose gold with rose gold. Absolutely no combinations or fantasies are allowed. We also adapt to the rings you wear, and/or the glasses frame even.
• If possible, wear a pocket watch, especially in the case of a skirt suit. It is considered a stylish accessory here.
• The watch strap is preferably black. Certainly not coloured, striking or flashy. However, with a dark blue tuxedo, a dark blue strap is also possible.
• Keep the strap buckle as simple as possible.
• If it looks good, it is good. I do take into account your good taste and at least a basic knowledge of vestimentary class.

Conclusion:   

Yes, it is possible nowadays, especially if you use your common sense.
However, if you are very traditional,.... Then don't wear a wristwatch.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

The flower loop (flower-loop in traditional English tailoring) is the loop at the back of the left reverie of the collar. Handmade, and formerly used to put the stem of the flower behind. The flower that was put through the buttonhole. Usually a carnation and for special occasions a rose of course! The boutonniere, or 'buttonhole' to which many people refer, is not really used to fold up the lapel and close it when it's raining or windy, but is purely a floral decoration element. One inserts a single flower or 'stud'. 

By the way, if it is not a real passage, i.e. not functional, most people nowadays unfortunately pin the flower, or the 'corsage', with a safety pin or something similar. Especially with a dinner jacket or dinner jacket. Let's not think about the damage this causes to your collar. Especially if it is a silk one with a dinner jacket.

It also symbolises a certain tradition. And tradition, don't we love that as real gentlemen? Let's appreciate and cherish this little detail. And use it for its purpose, of course! 
Unfortunately, we are talking about a tradition that is becoming less and less common. Let's keep it simple and just wear a flower, a carnation, or maybe even a rose, on the lapel of your blazer when you go out to dinner for example. As an ode to your partner, or just for fun. People are guaranteed to look at you and even label you. Yes, as a dandy or playboy, when in fact you are just a gentleman. And also shows that you know your world. Because let's face it, can we only wear a flower to events?
At galas or weddings? It seems to me that a little elegance is always a bonus! 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits, writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform. He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Invitations come in....black tie, white tie, etc. For most, this can be confusing. So I'd like to explain the difference.
What are we going to wear when a certain dress code is required?

BLACK TIE
The "black tie" dress code, which is less formal than "white tie", is the most common form of formal evening wear. It is mostly worn for dinners, both public and private, parties and balls. It is also called "dinner jackets", "DJs", "dress for dinner" or, as in America, "tuxedos". 

What should one wear?

• A dinner jacket in wool (Barathea) or ultra-fine herringbone, single or double-breasted, without a split at the back.
  The collar is pointed or shawl-style, and lined with silk. The buttons are lined with the same fabric as the jacket. Normally the jacket is black, but in very warm climates a white version is also worn.  
• The trousers are black, in a normal standard width, and finished with a single silk band on the outside of the legs.
• A snow-white shirt, with a collar preferably in Marcella, a somewhat stiffer type of cotton. Single or double cuffs. The front button fastening is not visible, unless the shirt has removable studs. The studs are usually black, but can also be decorative.
• A black hand-knotted bow tie. Always avoid the pre-knotted version. It goes without saying that the bow tie should be in proportion to the stature of the wearer. 
• Shoes: black and shiny. Preferably patent leather. Finish with black silk stockings.
  No socks! 
• Cumberbands are not essential but can be worn. A cumberband, assorted with the bow tie is also possible, but you are treading on thin ice with it. 
• A waistcoat can be worn, but is rarely seen. Under no circumstances is it combined with a cumberbund. Never! 
• A white handkerchief or pocket square in the breast pocket of the jacket is a classic detail. 

This is the classic black tie, the tuxedo or dinner jacket. If you follow these basic rules, you will never go wrong!

Variations on the theme:
At 'dinner parties' with neighbours, friends or family and specifically at your own residence, you can wear a velvet tuxedo jacket, usually dark blue, bordeaux or bottle green. Combine this with a black bow tie, trimmed trousers, and possibly 'evening' or Albert slippers'. While this is acceptable for the host, it is not advisable for the guests. The slippers, often embroidered with a monogram or coat of arms, are more likely to be seen in the countryside than in the city. Unless otherwise stated, follow the rule 'when in Rome'. In some cases, national dress is also acceptable, such as the Indian Nehru coat or Arab dress.

WHITE TIE
The 'white tie dress code', also called 'full dress', 'evening dress' or, informally 'tails' or 'skirt'. It is the most formal dress code, and not much used nowadays. Before the second world war it was standard for gentlemen on evenings, as you can often see in movies or series. Within the Dutch Freemasonry, white tie with a black jacket is the standard. In Scandinavia white tie is also worn.

Nowadays, it is worn in the evening at certain royal ceremonies and balls, state banquets, etc.
It is also worn at some weddings (evening party), and also at charity balls.
Unfortunately, it is no longer seen in the theatre or at the opera.   

If you are expected to show up in white tie, this will always be mentioned on the invitation. Usually, however, one speaks of 'white or black tie', because one knows that not everyone has such an outfit available.

What should one wear?
The basis is the skirt coat, the tailcoat in black wool (barathea) or in an ultra-fine herringbone. The collar is pointed and lined with silk. The jacket, or vest, is always worn open. The js is shorter at the front than the English morning coat.

• The black trousers are the same as for black tie, except that the trouser legs now have two bands on the outside. 
• A snow-white Marcella (cotton piqué) shirt with a starched removable collar. Of course, the shirt here always has double cuffs. 
• Cuff links and studs. The studs are plain white or decorative. 
• A low-cut white waistcoat or gilet. This can and may be double or single-breasted.
• A thin elegant bow, always hand-knotted.
• If you don't have black patent leather shoes, make sure your shoes have a high-gloss finish.
  Always combine with black silk stockings. 
• In winter, a black overcoat and white silk scarf can be worn 

Variations on the theme
As with black tie, there may be regional or national encores in, for example, Indian, Chinese or Arabic traditions.
This is always mentioned on the invitation.

Certain societies or clubs have their own evening dress coats (usually coloured skirt coats in red, blue or green, with collars that may have been modified. They are worn with a white bow tie and waistcoat, and sometimes with ordinary black tie trousers. Non-members wear in this case, because they are not entitled to the club-coat, just black tie. 

Decorations
If you are required to wear white tie and the event is of a royal nature, or a state affair, or a very formal event you will see on the invitation: 'Evening Dress, decorations'. At a charity ball, for example, this comes across as rather grotesque. 

When asked for decorations, knights and ladies, for example, wear only the decorations of the highest order instead of all the decorations they have. Ken-or decorations are always worn on the left side.
In some cases, a collarette can be worn around the neck, just below the bow.

In practice, ex-servicemen do know what and how to wear it, as do members of certain orders. If you are in doubt, you can always contact the palace or the secretary concerned. It also goes without saying that you should not appropriate any medals or decorations that you are not entitled to. 

White tie or dress suits can always be embellished with white gloves, a top hat, and possibly a sober walking stick! 

Notes:
White tie and black tie cannot be combined. If you appear in black tie at a white tie event, people may mistake you for the waiter. Conversely, if you appear at a black tie event in a dress suit, people may think you are the pianist! Always make sure that the garments fit well.

Whether black tie or white tie, with a little preparation you can show your entourage that your presence and class allow you to be in the better circles of society. 

Etiquette:
At a white tie event, behave more reserved than at a black tie event. If in doubt, behave like the other guests.
And as an extra reminder of how to tie that bow tie! 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy