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Caviar, the Black Gold.

With the holidays approaching, and the catering industry closed in these days, the success of your party depends on a caterer or your own abilities. And not everyone is a hero in the kitchen. But with a luxury product like caviar, the famous sturgeon eggs, you can easily conjure up a wondrous dish.

The unique thing about caviar is that it does not need any complicated preparation. Even in the simplest combinations, with basic ingredients, the product is at its best. Therefore I would like to share some caviar facts and recipes with you.

Caviar consists of the unfertilised eggs of the sturgeon. The name "caviar" originates from the Persian خاگآور(Khag-avar). The first caviar eaters were the Persians (Iranians) who believed that caviar would improve their stamina and potency.

Depending on the type of sturgeon whose eggs are, one distinguishes between:

  • caviar of sturgeon
    • beluga caviar (silvery to black colour and shown here on the right)
    • asetrak caviar (black to greenish grey)
    • sevruga caviar (dark grey)
    • caluga caviar (Siberian huso) from the Siberian River Amur.
  • imitation caviar (not from sturgeon and cannot in principle bear the name "caviar")
    • Lumpfish caviar (red or black; colour obtained by natural colouring)
    • Alaska wild salmon caviar (red in colour)
    • Trout caviar (orange in colour)

Below you can find some recipes, because the classic blinis with caviar are just a snack!

First of all, the 'Pomme Moscovite'. Once the favourite of the Russian Tsars, hence the name.

INGREDIENTS for 4 people:

  • 500 grams small potatoes
  • 1 small box of caviar
  • 3 tbsp sour cream
  • 1 tbsp chopped chives
  • Possibly a few drops of lemon juice
  • Pepper

PREPARED:

Put the potatoes, unpeeled, with some olive oil in an oven dish. Put this dish in a preheated oven at 220°C, so that the potatoes 'pop'. Take them out and let them cool down a little. Cut off the top of the potatoes and hollow them out with a small spoon.

With what you take out of the potatoes we make the filling: Mix it with the sour cream, the chives, a few drops of lemon juice and season with some pepper.
Fill the potatoes back up and finish with a spoonful of caviar.
There you go, the simple earthy tuber has had a more than decent upgrade, and is now, quite rightly, an imperial appetiser.

If you prefer a main course, I think of a pasta, which can be made into something very special by using caviar.

Pasta with smoked salmon and caviar:

INGREDIENTS:

  • 450 gr fresh Linguini or Fettuccini
  • 250 ml cream
  • 120 to 200 g smoked salmon
  • A pinch of nutmeg
  • A pinch of black pepper. Or to taste.
  • Your pot of caviar, of course!

PREPARATION:

  • Cook the pasta in 3 to 4 minutes until al dente.
  • In another pan, heat the cream, with nutmeg and black pepper.
  • Add the salmon in strips.
  • Drain the pasta, mix with the sauce and finish with a few spoonfuls of caviar!
  • Buon appetito!

Another favourite of mine is the combination with meat. Prepare a classic 'Steak Tartare'and finish off with caviar. Can it get any simpler?
But caviar can also provide a taste sensation at the table for breakfast. How about a divine scrambled egg?
Top your scrambled eggs with some cream, fill the egg shell with it again and finish off with some caviar.
And whether you are going to use real or imitation caviar,.... Let it taste good!

Please note:

  • Keep the caviar absolutely cold until the moment of serving.
  • Use a mother-of-pearl spoon, or a plastic one, until serving. Metals will oxidise if they come into contact with the caviar, and negatively affect the taste.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

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The difference between the Pinstripe and the Pinstripes

We all know the so-called pinstripes and the pinstripe! The exceptional cliché look of Wall Street investment bankers, mafiosi in films and of course The Great Gatsby. But also the classic suit of your father or grandfather, or you have one yourself. There is a difference, however, important or not, but 'details matter'. I would be happy to explain the subtle difference between the pinstripe and the pinstripe.

The classic striped suit is generally regarded as the business suit par excellence. It is recognised as the outfit of the power-dresser, especially in the double breasted version. It is therefore the quickest and easiest way to look top-notch right away.

Stripes come in all shapes, sizes and colours. The thickness, however, is what determines the name and we will discuss that here.

PINSTRIPES

Probably the most common and well-known is the pinstripe. This is a single thin stripe that gives the impression of a small short needle stitch. A single twisted thread is used to create the stripe. The distance between the stripes can vary.

The pinstripe is a fine stripe, but very pronounced. According to Alan Flusser in his well-known book 'Dressing the Man', pinstripes are "fine stripes in the width of a needle resluting in the use of white, grey or other colour, or other yarns, in a twisted sequence of worsted..."
And Hardy Amies writes in his lexicon 'ABC of Men's Fashion' that pinstripes are actually "a series of dots". Both are excellent descriptions, but they do not contradict each other.

So pinstripes are often woven into the cloth separately from the background weave on a Dobby loom, contrary to a simple part of the background weave.
It's added to the cloth in on top of the base colour. So the pinstripe is more defined and keeps it from blurring into the cloth. A nice variation on the pinstripe is the bead stripe, also called a beaded pinstripe or a rain pinstripe, which looks like a line of tiny beads spaced apart'.

References to the 'pinstripe' can be found in Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales', where the 'Sergeant at the Law' is described as wearing
"a homely parti-coloured coat girt with a silken belt of pin-stripe stuff". Pinstripes have been found in men's clothing since bein of the 19th century.
They were used by the London banks to identify their employees. Each bank had its stripes, and the space between the stripes indicated their rank or function. Originally, only the trousers were striped, but when the custom was adopted in America in the 20th century, they were also used in the jackets. And so the pinstripe suit was born!

CRIME TRIPS

A pinstripe is traditionally woven from about 2 to 5 threads wide and therefore resembles the stripe that a tailor puts on the fabric with his tailor's chalk. Hence the name. Pinstripes are mixed in with the other yarns, which makes the effect less distinctive.
It all looks a bit more vague than the pronounced pinstripe. Hardy Amies describes the difference as "'pin' stripes ... look very 'set' when compared to 'chalk' stripes, the outlines of which are blurred and thus blend with the background." And this is suddenly the best description.

The pinstripe is wrongly attributed the reputation of corporate conformity. It is true that it is synonymous with the bankers and other liberal professions such as notaries, lawyers, etc., but its roots run deeper as the uniformity found among the middle classes in the late 18the and beginning 19the century.

Named for its soft look, the pinstripe was adopted by modern white-collar workers working in the cities from around 1910 onwards and thus became the uniform of the big heavy business. Originally, it was even only allowed in British and American companies to have the stripe wider than 1 inch, for senior management. Later it was adopted by the Mafia to make it clear that they were above the ordinary mortal.

 

 

HOW DO WE WEAR THESE STRIPES?

A pinstripe or pinstripe suit can and will certainly spice up your wardrobe.

  • If you're going for the traditional British look, opt for the darkest variety you can find: A deep ink blue, a 'grey as coal', and combine it with a plain white shirt, and a bright tie to create contrast. In any case, it will make a powerful statement.
  • The version with centre button, 2 buttons, is modern, but if you want to go for the cutting edge of tradition, choose a double breasted suit.
  • If you prefer it more relaxed, go for the less pronounced pinstripe.
  • As a general rule, we can say that these stripes are only worn as a costume. But casual is becoming more and more acceptable.
  • Be especially careful with stripes in the tie or shirt. You don't want to become a signboard for all the possible stripes on the market. And if the stripes have the same width, it will all go wrong. But that goes without saying.
  • With a pinstripe, you always wear a tie.
  • The most classic look is in a snow-white shirt and dark or bright tie. Then you are on the safe side anyway.
  • Leave patterned shirts for what they are. They certainly don't belong on a striped suit!
  • Keep it simple with accessories. Pochette or tie pin? Certainly not both at the same time!
  • But who am I? And aren't rules there to be challenged?

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

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The Etiquette of the Sock.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

You can surf endlessly and Google around to find articles or rules about socks and men.
But that would be a waste of time for gentlemen or dandies. I have it all here for you, in a condensed form.
You will find a beautiful sock shop in Paris.
The shop is called 'mes chaussettes rouges'.

As a distinguished Gentleman once said: "Socks are by far, in my opinion, one of the most understated fundamentals of a man's wardrobe! As I sit in crowds of highly dressed men, not necessarily over-the-top but classic men, their socks are the silent topic that separates the junior executives from the partners."

  • White socks are only worn during sports.
  • Dressy shoes naturally require dressy socks. There is one basic rule: The dressier the situation, the darker the stockings or socks.
  • Match the colour with the trousers, not with the shoes. Black trousers with black socks, and we do the same with, for example, blue or grey. White trousers, white socks (no socks). When in doubt, always choose the darkest variant.
  • Socks or stockings that are coordinated with the colour of the trousers will make your outfit look more flowing. But, on the other hand, if they contrast, they can break up an otherwise dull look.
  • So a secondary colour is sometimes a good or nice alternative: matched with the colour of the tie, the pocket square or the shirt, for example. If you are wearing a green tie, a green accent in the socks can spice up your look. Anything above the waist, or belt is ok.
  • Never roll up your socks, or beat them. It is typical of the 80s and a real example of bad taste. It even looks strange.
    If your socks or stockings are pulled up properly, as they should be, they will give you a sleek beautiful line, even with the tightest of trousers.
  • Never wear socks or stockings with shorts or Bermuda shorts. There is not much more to be said about this. You don't want to look like a example of bad taste.
  • Renew your socks and stockings regularly: Every 6 months is recommended. They have a hard life and need to be worn a lot. They should be and remain soft and supple.
  • No socks in bed! You would not appreciate it if your partner did this either. We can safely say that it is quite repulsive.
  • Basic rule: When wearing a suit and sitting down, possibly with your legs crossed, one should never see your bare leg between your stockings or socks and the trousers.
  • The length of dress stockings: up to or over the calf.
  • To make sure you buy good quality: Look for a flat hem at the end near the toes.

But who am I to say that you should follow the rules? After all, aren't rules there to be broken? Follow your own rules.
Create your own style. It can be fun to experiment and add some Sprezzatura to your appearance.
Remember, every sock, every stocking has its occasion!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The controversy of the colour pink.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

First, we must ask ourselves why many, if not most, men avoid wearing pink-coloured garments?

Many men - mostly those with too much macho content - consider pink a feminine colour. And precisely because of this unfortunate stereotype, many refuse to wear this colour. One of the many reasons is that it gives them a certain degree of insecurity. They feel that the colour determines their sexual orientation or degree of masculinity.

Which, of course, is completely out of the blue. Are you a macho or a wimp? Let's go back in history for a moment.
Until the mid-20th century, pink was preferred for boys because of its brightness and blue for girls because of its association with the Virgin Mary.

Before the 1950s, the pink colour even exuded a certain 'masculine strength'. There were even 'khaki' trousers in the army that were nicknamed 'pinks' because of the pink glow they sometimes had. Nevertheless, today we have to conclude that there is still a strong female connotation attached to it, and this for both women and men.

And even longer ago the soldiers wore, at the Battle of Waterloored coats. This was done very deliberately, because a wounded or dead person's blood would not scare the 'mates'. Later this evolved into pink.

Secondly, we look at why and how men can wear pink.
The colour has a lot of potential for combining. It is flamboyant and adds a certain 'lightness' to your outfit. The colour pink is a sublime addition to, for example, brown, khaki, a monochrome outfit, and the darker versions of blue.

Pink is a colour that can be worn both formally and casually. Think for example of a black or grey suit that can be brightened up with a fresh shirt colour. Pink does this with ease! It is classic and gives a gentleman a certain elegance. Think of a man of the world strolling around Mayfair, possibly with a ciara in his hand, ready to take over the world. Just as easily, this scene can be set on the Chapms Elysées or on Fifth Avenue.

Third: How to wear a pink shirt, and how to combine?

As pink can be a rather bright, even cheeky colour, it is best combined with the darker tones. However, the colour is versatile: it goes well with both black and grey. Dark grey, I mean. For me, blue is the colour of choice.

Navy: Just plain with a dark blue suit. The colours complement each other perfectly. That said, with a blue blazer too! And with this, a pair of pink flannel trousers, or if you are more of a preppy type, a nice chino or khaki.

Combine with jeans and brown loafers. Or even white jeans in summer and black loafers? Also, never forget to match your belt with your shoes.

Seasonally, pink feels best in spring and summer! The sunlight really makes the colour stand out.

Tips & Facts:

  • Try to avoid pink t-shirts or jumpers.
  • Psychological research has shown that the colour pink has a calming effect on other people. It relaxes them.
  • Dark or tanned skin goes better with the pastel varieties.
  • The pink polo is eternally preppy. An Ivy-League look.
  • If you still think it would be too feminine in its look, feel free to combine it with masculine accessories such as braces, a waistcoat, or even Better, a cardigan. Keep your accessories to a minimum though, as pink is a statement anyway. Less is more in this case!
  • It shows that you are no longer a child who needs to wear boys' clothes. The colour does require a certain shape, or let's say level of self-confidence. And having said that, it does not define anyone's sexuality. It is best to consider this belief as underdeveloped.
  • The colour also has the property of demanding female attention, which has also been scientifically proven. Many ladies feel that a man who wears pink is more self-confident, sensitive and in touch with his inner self and emotions. These qualities are generally highly appreciated by women.
  • Wearing pink makes you stand out, and makes you more powerful A 2012 study commissioned by Cotton USAhas revealed some surprising facts, showing that men who wear pink earn, on average, $1,200 more on a yearly basis. These men also impress female colleagues more, and they perform with more self-confidence. If you get lost in a crowd, your friends or family can easily find you. After all, you are that sensitive man surrounded by ladies.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The Sidecar, the classic among cocktails!

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Harry's New York Bar, Paris.
As you may have gathered, I am a big fan of iconic things. Because, admittedly, they are always iconic for a reason! I drank my first Sidecar during my student days in 'Harry's Bar New Yorkwhen I lived and studied in Switzerland, at the famous 'Montreux Palace Hotel' in Montreux. And since the holidays are upon us again, a better cocktail may be poured, in these times of pre-made mixers, and other pre-made colourful fantasies. Gentlemen, you just can't go wrong with the following motto: 'Stick to the Classics'.

The Ritz Hotel in Paris claims the origin of this cocktail.
The first recipes for making the Sidecar appeared as early as 1922, in Harry MacElhone's 'Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails' and in Robert Vermeire's 'Cocktails and How to Mix Them'. It is also one of the six basic drinks listed in David A. Embury's 'The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1948)'. The tasty drink is most closely related to the older cognac 'Crusta', although it does differ in presentation, size and ingredients.

Buck's Club, London.
In the early editions of MacElhone's book, he quotes Pat MacGarry as the inventor. The popular bartender in Buck's Club, London. However, in later editions he mentions himself. Vermeire says that the cocktail was very popular in France and that it was first introduced in London by MacGarry, the celebrated bartender. Embury, on the other hand, gives credit for the invention to an American army captain in Paris during the First World War. He named the cocktail after the fast sidecar motorbike he was riding at the time!

By the way, speaking of Paris. When I lived there, I couldn't help but visit 'Harry's New York BarOf course. And you can guess it, I drank my Sidecars in this authentic bar too.

As complicated as it may look in the mixology canon, it deceives you in its simplicity. Actually, it is easy to make like your morning cup of coffee! With the simple combination of just three ingredients and a few ice cubes to spice it up, a perfect taste and aroma match is achieved. Although it is very simple in structure, it is certainly complex enough to satisfy the most spoilt taste buds.

If you feel like it, you can experiment with the proportions. The oldest recipes talk about the proportional, simple mix of the 3 ingredients, but for many this is a bit boring. Several guides and recipe books mention a 2:1:1 ratio of Cognac, lemon juice and Cointreau. I, however, prefer to add a little more Cointreau (triple sec) than lemon to keep a balance that is acceptable to me. But feel free to taste and test your own proportions.

Belroy's Bijou, Antwerp.
To be sure, I made an appointment with one of the best cocktail bars in Antwerp, Belroy's Bijouwhere a passionate top mixologist, Mr. Dieter Van Roy, explained to me, with the right moves, how they make a more than good Sadecar.

 

Ingredients:

  • Cognac: 4cl
  • Cointreau: 1 cl
  • Lemon / Lemon: 3 cl
  • Sugar syrup: 2 cl (sugar to be dissolved in water in proportion: 1:1)

With expert flair, the snarled Dieter mixes for me a delicious Sidecar, with a smooth swing.

How do we do it?
Combine the Cognac or brandy, the Cointreau, and the lime juice in a cocktail shaker, together with the sugar syrup, and fill well with ice cubes. No ice flakes otherwise it will dilute too much. Shake vigorously for at least 10 seconds, and pour through a strainer. Garnish the glass with a slice of orange or lime peel if you wish to brighten it up.
Easy peasy as they say, or in French: 'Simple comme bonjour'.

Optional:
Prepare the cocktail glass by making a slit in a lime slice and going over the edge of the glass with it. Then turn the glass over and rub the rim with very fine sugar to make a superfine sugar rim stick to the glass. Chill the glass until you need it to serve the cocktail. The first mention of this sugar rim on a Sidecar is in 1934, in three books: 'Burke's Complete Cocktail & Drinking Recipes', 'Gordon's Cocktail & Food Recipes' and in 'Drinks As They Are Mixed' (a revised reprint of Paul E. Lowe's 1904 book).

Gentlemen......cheers !

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The history of the Trench Coat.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The Iconic Trench Coat: The Classic Amongst Raincoats

Autumn, so we have rain and cold wind. This requires appropriate clothing. So the mackintosh comes out again!
The most classic is of course the iconic Trench Coat. Of military origin, it is always waterproof, usually with buttons and a belt made of the same material. It is a very detailed garment: many pockets and buttons, flaps and, especially in the past, epaulettes.

Origin:

The word 'trench' indicates the military origin, and comes from the 'trenches' of World War I. In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany.
In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany. In the autumn of 1914, the battle came to a standstill in a protracted trench warfare. Fighters from both sides were stuck for days on end in muddy foxholes, which invariably flooded during the frequent heavy rainfall. The army uniforms of the time were usually not designed for such conditions. The thick British woolen overcoats, in particular, became soaked almost immediately, causing thousands of soldiers, including a good number of officers, to succumb to disease. With winter approaching, the British army command therefore urgently sought an alternative winter coat, which they eventually found in the trench coat.

Who is the inventor?

Two British companies claim to have invented this jacket. Aquascutum claims to have introduced this trench coat to help British officers get a functional jacket. But according to their major competitor Burberry However, the first trench coat was designed in 1914 by Thomas Burberry, the then 80-year-old founder of the company. Both companies produced trench coats for the British army during the war, but we will probably never know which of them had the first idea. Aquascutum's claim to fame dates back to the 1850s. However, Thomas Burberry, the inventor of gabardine, submitted a design of the new officer's coat to the British Ministry of Defence in 1901.

In any case, it was an instant success! The waterproof gabardine fabric offered perfect protection from the rain, as did the loose flap at the back. On top of that, the jacket came up to the knees, which made it long enough to keep the upper legs warm, but too short to drag through the mud. Officers could stow their gear in the large spacious pockets and sweat smell could escape through the vents.

Unfortunately, the trench coat was not free. Military personnel who wanted to wear it had to pay for it out of their own pockets. A trench coat cost about 3 to 4 pounds, which for an ordinary soldier was the equivalent of 3 to 4 months' pay. The result? The trench coat became a status symbol among the British officers. This even went so far that the army commanders at one point forbade anyone below the rank of sergeant major to wear the coat. Sad, but true. However, this had the unintended effect of greatly increasing the mortality rate among British officers, as the German snipers could now more easily pick them off.

Those same years were also the heyday of the great expeditions. One of the first to try gabardine was the British explorer Ernest Shackleton. Ernest Shackletonwho, in 1914, secretly crashed his ship into the crushing ice in Antarctica but managed to survive thanks to Burberry's indestructible fabric. And, of course, incredible perseverance.

So what is a trench coat really?

The trench coat is obviously a mackintosh made of gabardine, but leather or poplin are also sometimes used. It usually has a removable insulating lining and the classic models range in length from calf height to just above the knee.
Traditionally, it has a double row of ten buttons, wide lapels and a belt around the waist and sleeve ends. There are often flaps on the shoulders that can be closed with buttons. The classic colour for a trench coat is khaki.

During the First World War, the well known typical shoulder flaps and straps were added to the design of the trench coat. The shoulder flaps were used to attach epaulettes and other rank insignia; the belts, according to legend, were used to attach hand grenades. This sounds very tough and masculine, but in reality, swords and maps were simply attached to them.

Evolution

During the Second World Wars, different variants appeared. Usually shorter for more freedom of movement. We won't go into that now, but we can say that the trench coat was here to stay. Nowadays, it graces the streets of both men and women. Not only veterans, but also Hollywood ensured the fame and status and later spread worldwide.

Several famous actors wore this jacket in classic films, such as Humphrey Bogart in 'Casablanca' and Marlene Dietrich in 'A Foreign Affair'. The fact that gangsters, detectives and femmes fatales appeared on the big screen in trench coats made the garment even more attractive to the general public. The trench coat's reputation was definitively established.

Other fictional heroes also contributed: Inspector Columbo, Dick Tracy, Neo from The Matrix and Peter Sellers' Inspector Jacques Clouseau. Michael Caine in Get Carter, Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy and Alain Delon in Le Samouraï. They usually wear a Fedora or, in extremely cold weather, an Ushanka.

What is Gabardine anyway, you may ask?

Gabardine is a fabric in a steep twill weave. Traditionally, the fabric is made of wool. Mixes of cotton, artificial fibre and wool, as well as fully synthetic variants, are also common. Gabardine is impregnated with waterproofing agents, is durable and crease-resistant. Because of these properties, it is used for suits and uniforms, but especially for mackintoshes. The origin of the fabric is not entirely clear. British fashion designer Thomas Burberry is said to have invented it in 1879 as a mixture of wool and cotton, but according to other sources, the name is derived from the Parisian fashion house Gabartin.
On the right side of the fabric, gabardine has more warp threads than weft threads. There are often twice as many warp threads as weft threads. The warp thread usually passes through two weft threads before passing under one or two weft threads. This compact weave makes gabardine water-repellent and crease-resistant. Like any twill weave, gabardine has characteristic diagonal lines. These are clearly visible, close together and slightly raised. The angle of the diagonals is 45 or 63 degrees. Men's fashion more often uses variants with the larger angle. Women's fashion predominantly uses the smaller angle.

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

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The Regimental Tie or Striped Tie

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The Regimental or Striped Tie

Also called rep tie or club tie. There is a clear difference between English and American stripes, namely the direction. You may wonder why and how this is so. Well, we are happy to explain it to you.

The well-known British 'regimental tie' has the stripes at an angle from high left, but down right. As they say over the pond: 'from the heart'. It is also the direction of the British and international military salute. So it originated at the turn of the 20th century. More specifically, 'from heart to sword', as a nod to the origins of combat, war. For those who still wonder where the word 'Regimental' comes from? The colours and patterns of the ties and ribbons have been derived from uniforms, flags and coats of arms since the First World War. And thus also regiments. The regimental tie is also known as the 'club tie'. In this way, the wearer communicates his membership of a gentleman's club.

Royal influence

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Prince of Wales, before briefly becoming King, visited America on an official state visit.
Without realising it himself, he changed the customs of how and by whom the striped ties were worn.
Like many veterans, he wore his regimental tie, striped blue and red from the Grenadier Guards.
The Americans, fascinated by his style and dress, were particularly fascinated by that tie, which was then much discussed in the press.
in the press. After his visit, they became immensely popular.

The Democratisation of an Icon

Brooks Brothers thought that this style should be available to everyone. To Americanise it, as it were.
They took away the meaning of the tie by making the stripes the opposite way round: Namely from right to left!
This act of fashionRebellion was the birth of a style icon.

Since then, the striped tie has been the favourite of everyone from the US President to pop stars.
The fans are as diverse as the variations of the tie itself. Ranging from the military, to businessmen, to the famous Ivy-League universities.

Hence, American ties are in the opposite direction. A slightly more playful explanation is that the English ties follow the direction of the face, while the American ones point to the crotch.

After schools and 'social clubs' followed this trend, the look also became very fashionable and popular among ordinary citizens. Wearing accessories in certain colours became a way of exuding social status. In this way, this beautiful classic was also introduced into the sartorial world, without being in conflict with certain traditions.

Many brands, ranging from Brooks Brothers to Ralph Laurendiscovered a certain sophistication and elegance that goes with the striped tie. It is now a classic in the American wardrobe among prepsters and classic style seekers.

Das-Etiquette

So both the colours of the stripes and the direction may have a meaning. Membership of a military regiment, an exclusive club, or a prestigious university such as Oxford, Cambridge or Harvard. It provides a clear identity for these groups. It must be said that it is not appreciated if you wear a tie with meaning and you are not or were not a member of this group. You have no right to it and some people even take offence.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

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The overcoat in will variations

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Overcoats come in a variety of styles and models.
Most people just call it an overcoat, or in English; a Chesterfield or Crombie. They not only offer the wearer adequate protection from the elements, but also make you look good. However, there are differences. The fact is that the overcoat conveys a lot about the wearer. What is he wearing underneath?
Which model do you need? Which style suits you best? What fabric have you chosen? Personally, I wear several. With a centre placket, double-breasted, navy-blue, beige/camel and grey checkered. The materials range from a firm hard wool to a soft wool-cashmere blend, to even a full cashmere one. So let's take a closer look at the overcoat.

THE 'CROMBIE'

J & J Crombie Ltd. Is a British clothing manufacturer. They make high-end clothing and accessories under the Crombie name.
They are best known for their luxury overcoats. So much so that other brands use the name Crombie to refer to their own product line made in the same style: A ¾ overcoat, usually in wool. However, Crombie is known to be taking legal action against these practices and the generic use of their name.

Immediately recognisable is the Retro jacket: the most iconic of all time, and exclusively available at Crombie. The Retro takes its inspiration from the first men's overcoats and the stylish English topcoats, with an exceptional eye for detail. In a classic cut, with single overlap closure, it exudes tradition and elegant British timelessness.

Followers of this classic include Sir Winston Churchill, The Beatles, and Cary Grant. Available in a rich navy blue, or strong black, each jacket is carefully lined in red, and has a distinctive collar in black velvet. Classic and multifunctional, this Crombie icon, and therefore this style, is a favourite with heads of state and the classic movie stars of yesteryear.

THE 'CHESTERFIELD

The Chesterfield is a long, overcoat named after Sir George Stanhope, the 6e Earl of Chesterfield, and leader of British fashion in the 1830s and 1840s.
The Chesterfield appeared around 1840, along with the so-called "lounge suit", as an alternative to
the high-cut overcoats such as the frock overcoat, which was heavily fitted with horizontal seams and stitching. The Chesterfield has no horizontal seams or boning, but can still be elegantly shaped with side seams or figure seams.

It has a single or double-breasted fastening, and was popular in a variety of fabrics, typically the heavier tweed, in coal-grey or dark blue, and even the camel-coloured classic. It is often fitted with a velvet collar. These variants make it very multifunctional, such that it can be worn with a suit in the city, or even semi-formal, up to even sportier.

It was a trend-setter for stylish men in the 1920s to 1960s, and has been a classic for both men and women ever since.

THE COVERT COAT

The covert coat was originally a short overcoat worn while hunting. Today, it is sold as a regular overcoat. However, it was designed in the late 19the century to wear while riding. That is why the jacket always has a high slit in the back. The Covert fabric from which the jacket is made, is a sturdy Tweed, named after the covered area, the area where a lot of game was found, and thus served as the starting point of a hunting party.
The covert coat is always single-breasted, middle closure so, lapels with notch, pockets with flaps. A ticket-pocket is optional. Typical is the stitching: 4 or 5 lines at the cuffs of the sleeves, and at the bottom of the jacket, on the hem. The collar is made of either covert fabric or rich velvet. The traditional colour varies from a light greenish beige, to an indulgent shade of green, but variants in rice and dark blue are equally common.

Variations were worn by George VI and Edward VIII, but equally by both Jason Statham and Stephen Graham in the 2000 crime comedy film Snatch. The covert coat received much media attention during the 2015 UK election, when it was worn by UKIP party leader Mr Nigel Farage

THE 'POLO COAT'

The polo coat, also known as the camel overcoat, was originally worn by polo players in England.
It is always available from Ralph Lauren, but not designed by him.
The polo coat was originally a coat with a belt. Eventually, it evolved into a double-breasted model with a button closure.
Before the 1st World War, polo arrived in the US and when players wore their jackets after matches, the polo coat was adopted by spectators and fashion leaders alike. In 1926, this camel-hair coat became especially popular among students at Princeton and Yale, and a few seasons later it had completely conquered the United States. By the end of the 1920s, almost every Ivy League undergrad had a Chesterfield and Polo Coat wardrobe.
Originally in camel hair, later a mixture with sheep's wool, because of its durability.
The terms "polo-coat" and "camel-coat" are therefore synonymous.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy

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The Smoking: to Watch or not to Watch? 

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Tuxedo - Black Tie - Smoking ....... Are you going to wear a watch? Or not wearing one? Will you or will you not? And why?
Soon the holidays will arrive, and you should think about it anyway.
This is a question I get asked on a regular basis. Therefore, in order to clear up the confusion, and to separate assumptions from facts...
Let's look at the arguments! Because in the past, it really wasn't possible. And in some environments, it still isn't possible.

CONTRAs:

  • It does not look like it! Since the dinner jacket or tuxedo is minimalist in style. Sleek and elegant, but sober. A watch takes the balance out of it, and makes the whole less stylish.
  • Etiquette! Perhaps the most important argument! A wristwatch can send the signal to the host of the exclusive event you are attending that, no matter how much effort he or she puts into organising it, you are still losing track of time. This may be seen as disrespectful. Perhaps you have somewhere else to go? All your attention should go to the host or hostess, and the guests.
  • You don't need a watch at all, as everyone has a smartphone nowadays anyway.

PROs:

  • Well, sometimes you just want to know what time it is.
  • You have a very beautiful watch and want to wear it.
  • A wristwatch is still better than looking at your smartphone. It is simply less conspicuous to look discreetly at your wrist than to take your smartphone out of your pocket, lift the screen and look at the time display.
  • Even contemporary style icons wear a watch on the red carpet. Not that this should be considered a true reference, but it does say something about today's prevailing standards.
  • Mr. Alan Flusser, author of many iconic books and style manuals, wrote about which watch, and how to wear it with a dinner jacket. And his books are internationally regarded as the manuals of classic style and class.

However:

Have you ever Fred Astaire in his tuxedo wearing a wristwatch? I don't think so.
And I challenge you all to look more stylish than he ever did! Mr. B. James Bond,
Mr. 007, regarded by many, if not the majority, as an example of contemporary style and class, always wears a wristwatch. Even in combination with a dinner jacket. He even takes it a step further, as it is usually a fairly sturdy and heavy sports watch.
Oh well, as long as it's cinematic. When I myself attend an event, where dinner jacket or dinner jacket is desired or required, I can't help but notice that the rule of 'no watch with dinner jacket', can be considered quite dated. What you do yourself, you can of course distinguish. What is appropriate...'.

So, what now?

So now that we have established what is acceptable and what is not, more or less, it does not mean that we can just do whatever we want. If you still want to come across as stylish and classy, there are still rules that need to be followed. Or let's call it 'friendly advice'.
As a gentleman, or modern-day gentleman, we do follow these rules.....:

  • Basic rule: If you have decided to wear a wristwatch, choose as formal a model as possible. If you are going to wear it to the beach or for mountain biking, for example, then definitely don't wear it at night!
  • Aesthetics: Roman numerals in place of numbers are increasingly elegant and clearly more formal. The dial is simple, elegant, and not too conspicuous. And you certainly don't need chronographs, day-dates or other complicated world timers. On the other hand, you can still get away with a nice moon-phase display or complication.
  • Always wear the wristwatch on the left wrist. In this way, it will not be visible when you greet someone and shake hands.
    Your sleeve and cuff will creep up.
  • Ideally, a simple model. The smaller and less conspicuous it is, the more appropriate.
  • If you really need to know the time, do it as inconspicuously as possible. Go to the toilets, or retreat to an empty hall or corridor, or go outside for a moment if you have the chance.
  • Always do the cuff test first. Make sure the watch is not so big that it sits uncomfortably under the sleeve. Make sure it is worn as unnoticeably as possible.
  • Make sure your watch has no audible alarms: no beeping or ringing. Let's not attract attention.
    Especially not during a dinner, theatre performance or concert.
  • Let's avoid watches that glow in the dark. This can be considered distracting. And can be very distracting in the theatre, for example.
  • Check the time as little as possible, and certainly not during a conversation. Then your watch is not worthy of a glance, out of respect for your conversation partner.
  • If you do decide to wear a wristwatch, it should match your cufflinks and any shirt studs. Yellow gold with yellow gold, silver with silver, rose gold with rose gold. Absolutely no combinations or fantasies are allowed. We also adapt to the rings you wear, and/or the glasses frame even.
  • If possible, wear a pocket watch, especially in the case of a skirt suit. It is considered a stylish accessory here.
  • The watch strap is preferably black. Certainly not coloured, striking or flashy. However, with a dark blue tuxedo, a dark blue strap is also possible.
  • Keep the strap buckle as simple as possible.
  • If it looks good, it is good. I do take into account your good taste and at least a basic knowledge of vestimentary class.

Conclusion:   

Yes, it is possible nowadays, especially if you use your common sense.
However, if you are very traditional,.... Then don't wear a wristwatch.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy

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How to dress and behave on a sailing yacht.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Kennedy Masonic Store Dutch RegaliaThe nautical refers to the sea and ships or boats. There is the romantic image that is reflected in a navy blazer with shiny brass or gold buttons, a snow-white sailor's uniform, a yellow sou'wester, or the classic dark blue or striped sailor's jumper from Normandy, with buttons on the shoulder .... The writing can be a bit more light-hearted, and as we are still in the middle of a beautiful Indian summer, the opportunity may still present itself to go sailing or be invited for a nice trip or afternoon on the water.


I would therefore like to give you some sartorial tips, for the classic traditional on the water, and also some fun 'facts'.
Well, nowadays anything goes, even on the water, but as a supporter of the classic and stylish ... well, you get my drift.

First of all, we should state that there is a big difference between 'going sailing' (yachting) and 'going on a cruise' (cruising). Going on a cruise is actually the same as going to a hotel. The only difference is that you do so on a cruise ship, which is in fact just a floating hotel. So going sailing or cruising is indeed where the difference lies. And where certain rules have to be followed.
Rules that have a clear practical reason, and others that are more traditional in origin.
In any case, if you are a gentleman, you should follow them.


The Basic Rules:

  • Of course you should dress nautically (how original!)
  • You always wear shoes with white soles. Preferably the leather version of the 'deck-shoes' like Sebago or Sperry Topsiders. The deck of the boat, usually in teak, does not like the stripes or smudges caused by dark soles. And the captain or owner of the yacht certainly does not! If you do not have shoes with white soles, go barefoot.
  • Never wear red trousers on board. This privelge is traditionally reserved for those who have crossed the Atlantic.
    By boat. And we don't mean a cruise ship!

What is suggested:

  • Johnny Walker Jude Law Masonic shop dutch regaliaWhite or beige / écru trousers, or depending on the weather, shorts (chino or khaki).
  • Navy blue blazer or cardigan.
  • Go for a preppy look. Preppy takes a lot of inspiration from the nautical lifestyle.
  • Wear a classic polo shirt.
  • Or, slightly dressier, a snow-white shirt.
  • Wear a brown leather belt. It compliments the white of your outfit perfectly.
  • Always bring a jumper or windbreaker. After all, it can be chilly or windy on the water.
  • Don't forget the sunscreen. The reflection of the sun's rays on the water intensifies the effect.
  • Your shoes should not only have a white sole, they should also have a firm grip on the (wet) deck.
  • Socks? That depends on your style. But never, never, never even white ones in sandals!
  • Red is a perfect and beautiful colour for your sailing jacket or wind-breaker!

Accessories & How to complete your Nautical look:
A classic pair of pilot or sailing glasses will always give you a smooth look. A Ray-Ban Wayfarer is a stylish alternative. And if you really want to go for style, like the two gentlemen in the photo, then you should buy a classic pair of sailing glasses. Persol
Always make sure you have good lenses, because you are on the water and there is a lot of reflection.

  • A nice leather belt is important because it will always be very visible.
  • A cap to protect you from the sun, splashing (salt) water, wind and rain.
  • A nice heavy (waterproof) watch completes the overall look.
  • You can drape your beautiful jumper or pullover over the shoulders for a relaxing effect.
  • If you prefer something more dressy, go for a double-breasted version of the navy blazer.
  • A shirt in light jeans fabric (Chambray).
  • Everything with a coat of arms, preferably that of yourself, a club, or the yacht club to which you belong.
  • In short, everything in white, red, navy and/or striped. But never more than 2 colours combined if you opt for stripes.

How to behave / Superstition vs. tradition:

  • JFK nautical Masonic shop dutch regaliaAs mentioned before, red trousers only if you have crossed 'the big pond'.
  • Do not wear green on board. That is a country colour.
  • There is no whistling (lips). Cfr. "Whistling a storm".
  • Do not wear a bandana. However cool it may seem, you are not a pirate!
  • Bananas are not allowed on board either: First, they go bad too quickly, but legend has it that during the height of Spanish rule, and trade with the Caribbean in the 1700s, most of the lost ships carried bananas. Coincidence or not?
  • When "boarding", always do this with the right foot first.
  • No female crew (very old-fashioned, and outdated of course). Originally it was thought that they would distract the crew too much. I wonder what has changed.
  • No rabbits on board. The word is not even pronounced!
  • The senior officer, or captain, is the first to enter the sloop, or tender. But also the first to leave it. LIFO (Last In, First Out)
  • No pigs will come on board.
  • Never, ever rename a boat or a ship. If it is really necessary, keep the old name somewhere on board. If the name has been changed, do not forget to put a small coin in the deepest part of the hull. Never forget this!
  • Never leave your home port on a Friday.
  • Do not do this on a Thursday either. Thursday' is Thor's day, the god of thunder and storm.
  • On board, never cut your hair, clip your nails or trim your beard. It's a no-no, because it brings bad luck.
  • Avoid redheads! If you meet one or other of them just before you sign on or board, it will bring bad luck.
    But if you speak to them before they speak to you, it will bring good luck again.
  • "Rounding the two horns" of the ship means that you may sit at the table with both elbows during meals. (Many traditions and sayings come from the English, for England used to be the seafaring country).
  • Cats on board are highly debatable: Some say they bring bad luck, others happiness and prosperity.
  • The captain is always right. And even if the captain is not right, the captain is always right.

______________________________________________
It goes without sayingthat different rules apply for a modern fast sailing boat. After all, you have to 'work' on board. So: 'dress to the occasion'.
______________________________________________

Anecdote:
When inventor & sailor Paul A. Sperry was sailing on the Long Island Sound, he slipped on the deck of his boat and fell overboard. He was fortunately able to pull himself back on board, but this frightening experience drove him to develop a non-slip shoe sole. While experimenting with all kinds of possibilities for the non-slip shoes, he noticed the amazing ability of his dogs to walk down an icy hill without slipping. The grooves on the paws of his beloved four-legged friend, the cocker spaniel Prince, inspired him to cut into a natural rubber sole to create similar grooved patterns (slats). So the pattern of grooves or cracks on his dog's legs gave him the idea for a canvas upper shoe with a herringbone pattern of grooves on the sole.
So, now you know!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant for Scapa ,Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy







 

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