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Every gentleman has a few pairs of good-looking and especially decent dress shoes. Most likely these have been a sound investment, and as we all know, investments need to be protected. Beautiful polished shoes do not only complete your wardrobe, but maintenance also extends the life span of your favourite pair of footwear.

For many it is a necessary evil, but you can also make it a weekly or fortnightly ritual.
You will notice that after a few times it will be a real pleasure. A nicely polished and well maintained shoe also has to do with self-respect. Leather is an organic substance, just like human skin. If you let it dry out, it will wear faster and get ugly creases and cracks.
Therefore, use the best products you can afford for maintenance, i.e. of natural origin.

  • Your good shoes deserve cedar wood shoe trees. Not only do they ensure that the shoe keeps its shape after wearing, because they dry 'in shape', but the wood also has a drying and deodorising effect. It will not only absorb sweat, but also acids and salt.
    Always put the shoe trees in the shoes immediately after wearing them.
  • If you do not have shoe trees, you can stuff the shoe with newspaper before polishing. This keeps them in shape.
  • Cover your work surface in advance with old newspaper. Polishing shoes can be a dirty job.
  • Decide in advance whether you are going to use a brush or an old T-shirt. For polishing, the brush is best, for in between I personally prefer a t-shirt. This gives more feeling with the leather and the shoe.
  • Use a lint-free soft cloth for the final finish.
  • As mentioned before, use natural products as much as possible. Products based on beeswax are preferred. They are slightly more expensive but well worth the money. And they smell better too! Dried-out crumbly shoe cream is a no-no.
  • Make sure you have all the products and the right colours ready before you start. I also recommend that you treat several pairs at a time.
    This will get rid of them all at once and also save you time.
  • You can obtain extra gloss after all the steps by rubbing the leather with an old nylon stocking. Be careful not to do this on the creases or they may get a crackled effect from the extra shine afterwards. So only on the nose and contre-fort, the heel piece.
  • When applying the coloured wax or cream, never forget to apply it to the sides of the soles. Pay special attention to the front, and don't forget the heel. The heel is a weak point for many men: driving a car makes the heels dull and grey due to the position of the foot, especially the right one, on the accelerator.

First of all: Clean up!

Before you start polishing your shoes, they should of course be cleaned thoroughly. First brush all the coarse dirt off the shoes.
Don't forget to do the seams as well as the edge where the leather is attached to the sole. This can be done with a toothbrush.

Dust, mud, salt and other accumulated dirt have no chance of being fixed by the new polish and/or wax to be applied. Any remaining grains of sand could also scratch the surface when you apply new coats. This is also the time to remove the laces from the shoes. You protect them and avoid getting shoe polish on them, which will give you dirty hands when you tie the shoes afterwards.

Stubborn dirt can best be wiped off with a damp cloth, and in case there are already too many old wax layers on the surface, you can use an adapted 'cleanser'. This lotion, which is adapted to each individual, also ensures that the pores open up again. As a result, the new layer of cream will penetrate the leather more easily. Then let the shoes dry for at least 10 minutes.

Step 2: Feeding.

After thorough cleaning, which in any case, together with wearing the shoes, has put a strain on them, we need to nourish the leather again. Gently rub the nourishing lotion or cream into the leather in not too large quantities. You can do this with a brush or, as I do, a soft cotton cloth such as an old t-shirt. Rub in small circles until completely absorbed. This will ensure that the leather gets a rejuvenating cure, as it were. The perfect good basis. Let this also soak in for about 10 minutes. Make sure that no residue is left on the leather.
Everything has to be spread nicely and evenly over the whole shoe.

Step 3: Brushing out

After the lotion or cream has rested and been absorbed, the shoes should be brushed out for the first time. Preferably use a soft brush with horsehair. It is sufficient to brush briefly and firmly over the entire shoe. You will notice that the natural products already make the leather shine.

Step 4: Shoe polish and/or wax!

With a soft brush, or like me, a soft cloth, we now gently but thoroughly rub the coloured cream into the leather on the shoes.
Make sure that everything is applied evenly and that no thicker stripes are left behind. They are difficult to remove once they have dried.

A cream is easier to apply than a wax, which is harder by nature. The main advantage of a wax is the extra protection and shine afterwards. A combination of both is also possible. If necessary, use a cotton bud for places that are difficult to reach, such as the seams and where the sole is attached to the shoe. Here you can be quite generous.

Leave the cream or wax to penetrate for at least 15 minutes. This will allow it to set in and on the leather.

The final step

Take your horsehair brush and brush the entire shoe to the desired shine. If you want, you can rub in a little more and polish again. Tastes differ, of course. It is a fact that several thin layers are better and more beautiful than one thick layer.
The polishing itself is done with short, quick strokes. Because of the heat that is generated during this process, the products will be absorbed better into the leather. Now put the laces back in, and you have a pair of shoes worthy of a gentleman again!

 

 

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

With the holidays approaching, and the catering industry closed in these days, the success of your party depends on a caterer or your own abilities. And not everyone is a hero in the kitchen. But with a luxury product like caviar, the famous sturgeon eggs, you can easily conjure up a wondrous dish.

The unique thing about caviar is that it does not need any complicated preparation. Even in the simplest combinations, with basic ingredients, the product is at its best. Therefore I would like to share some caviar facts and recipes with you.

Caviar consists of the unfertilised eggs of the sturgeon. The name "caviar" originates from the Persian خاگآور(Khag-avar). The first caviar eaters were the Persians (Iranians) who believed that caviar would improve their stamina and potency.

Depending on the type of sturgeon whose eggs are, one distinguishes between:

  • caviar of sturgeon
    • beluga caviar (silvery to black colour and shown here on the right)
    • asetrak caviar (black to greenish grey)
    • sevruga caviar (dark grey)
    • caluga caviar (Siberian huso) from the Siberian River Amur.
  • imitation caviar (not from sturgeon and cannot in principle bear the name "caviar")
    • Lumpfish caviar (red or black; colour obtained by natural colouring)
    • Alaska wild salmon caviar (red in colour)
    • Trout caviar (orange in colour)

Below you can find some recipes, because the classic blinis with caviar are just a snack!

First of all, the 'Pomme Moscovite'. Once the favourite of the Russian Tsars, hence the name.

INGREDIENTS for 4 people:

  • 500 grams small potatoes
  • 1 small box of caviar
  • 3 tbsp sour cream
  • 1 tbsp chopped chives
  • Possibly a few drops of lemon juice
  • Pepper

PREPARED:

Put the potatoes, unpeeled, with some olive oil in an oven dish. Put this dish in a preheated oven at 220°C, so that the potatoes 'pop'. Take them out and let them cool down a little. Cut off the top of the potatoes and hollow them out with a small spoon.

With what you take out of the potatoes we make the filling: Mix it with the sour cream, the chives, a few drops of lemon juice and season with some pepper.
Fill the potatoes back up and finish with a spoonful of caviar.
There you go, the simple earthy tuber has had a more than decent upgrade, and is now, quite rightly, an imperial appetiser.

If you prefer a main course, I think of a pasta, which can be made into something very special by using caviar.

Pasta with smoked salmon and caviar:

INGREDIENTS:

  • 450 gr fresh Linguini or Fettuccini
  • 250 ml cream
  • 120 to 200 g smoked salmon
  • A pinch of nutmeg
  • A pinch of black pepper. Or to taste.
  • Your pot of caviar, of course!

PREPARATION:

  • Cook the pasta in 3 to 4 minutes until al dente.
  • In another pan, heat the cream, with nutmeg and black pepper.
  • Add the salmon in strips.
  • Drain the pasta, mix with the sauce and finish with a few spoonfuls of caviar!
  • Buon appetito!

Another favourite of mine is the combination with meat. Prepare a classic 'Steak Tartare'and finish off with caviar. Can it get any simpler?
But caviar can also provide a taste sensation at the table for breakfast. How about a divine scrambled egg?
Top your scrambled eggs with some cream, fill the egg shell with it again and finish off with some caviar.
And whether you are going to use real or imitation caviar,.... Let it taste good!

Please note:

  • Keep the caviar absolutely cold until the moment of serving.
  • Use a mother-of-pearl spoon, or a plastic one, until serving. Metals will oxidise if they come into contact with the caviar, and negatively affect the taste.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

We all know the so-called pinstripes and the pinstripe! The exceptional cliché look of Wall Street investment bankers, mafiosi in films and of course The Great Gatsby. But also the classic suit of your father or grandfather, or you have one yourself. There is a difference, however, important or not, but 'details matter'. I would be happy to explain the subtle difference between the pinstripe and the pinstripe.

The classic striped suit is generally regarded as the business suit par excellence. It is recognised as the outfit of the power-dresser, especially in the double breasted version. It is therefore the quickest and easiest way to look top-notch right away.

Stripes come in all shapes, sizes and colours. The thickness, however, is what determines the name and we will discuss that here.

PINSTRIPES

Probably the most common and well-known is the pinstripe. This is a single thin stripe that gives the impression of a small short needle stitch. A single twisted thread is used to create the stripe. The distance between the stripes can vary.

The pinstripe is a fine stripe, but very pronounced. According to Alan Flusser in his well-known book 'Dressing the Man', pinstripes are "fine stripes in the width of a needle resluting in the use of white, grey or other colour, or other yarns, in a twisted sequence of worsted..."
And Hardy Amies writes in his lexicon 'ABC of Men's Fashion' that pinstripes are actually "a series of dots". Both are excellent descriptions, but they do not contradict each other.

So pinstripes are often woven into the cloth separately from the background weave on a Dobby loom, contrary to a simple part of the background weave.
It's added to the cloth in on top of the base colour. So the pinstripe is more defined and keeps it from blurring into the cloth. A nice variation on the pinstripe is the bead stripe, also called a beaded pinstripe or a rain pinstripe, which looks like a line of tiny beads spaced apart'.

References to the 'pinstripe' can be found in Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales', where the 'Sergeant at the Law' is described as wearing
"a homely parti-coloured coat girt with a silken belt of pin-stripe stuff". Pinstripes have been found in men's clothing since bein of the 19th century.
They were used by the London banks to identify their employees. Each bank had its stripes, and the space between the stripes indicated their rank or function. Originally, only the trousers were striped, but when the custom was adopted in America in the 20th century, they were also used in the jackets. And so the pinstripe suit was born!

CRIME TRIPS

A pinstripe is traditionally woven from about 2 to 5 threads wide and therefore resembles the stripe that a tailor puts on the fabric with his tailor's chalk. Hence the name. Pinstripes are mixed in with the other yarns, which makes the effect less distinctive.
It all looks a bit more vague than the pronounced pinstripe. Hardy Amies describes the difference as "'pin' stripes ... look very 'set' when compared to 'chalk' stripes, the outlines of which are blurred and thus blend with the background." And this is suddenly the best description.

The pinstripe is wrongly attributed the reputation of corporate conformity. It is true that it is synonymous with the bankers and other liberal professions such as notaries, lawyers, etc., but its roots run deeper as the uniformity found among the middle classes in the late 18the and beginning 19the century.

Named for its soft look, the pinstripe was adopted by modern white-collar workers working in the cities from around 1910 onwards and thus became the uniform of the big heavy business. Originally, it was even only allowed in British and American companies to have the stripe wider than 1 inch, for senior management. Later it was adopted by the Mafia to make it clear that they were above the ordinary mortal.

 

 

HOW DO WE WEAR THESE STRIPES?

A pinstripe or pinstripe suit can and will certainly spice up your wardrobe.

  • If you're going for the traditional British look, opt for the darkest variety you can find: A deep ink blue, a 'grey as coal', and combine it with a plain white shirt, and a bright tie to create contrast. In any case, it will make a powerful statement.
  • The version with centre button, 2 buttons, is modern, but if you want to go for the cutting edge of tradition, choose a double breasted suit.
  • If you prefer it more relaxed, go for the less pronounced pinstripe.
  • As a general rule, we can say that these stripes are only worn as a costume. But casual is becoming more and more acceptable.
  • Be especially careful with stripes in the tie or shirt. You don't want to become a signboard for all the possible stripes on the market. And if the stripes have the same width, it will all go wrong. But that goes without saying.
  • With a pinstripe, you always wear a tie.
  • The most classic look is in a snow-white shirt and dark or bright tie. Then you are on the safe side anyway.
  • Leave patterned shirts for what they are. They certainly don't belong on a striped suit!
  • Keep it simple with accessories. Pochette or tie pin? Certainly not both at the same time!
  • But who am I? And aren't rules there to be challenged?

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

 

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

You can surf endlessly and Google around to find articles or rules about socks and men.
But that would be a waste of time for gentlemen or dandies. I have it all here for you, in a condensed form.
You will find a beautiful sock shop in Paris.
The shop is called 'mes chaussettes rouges'.

As a distinguished Gentleman once said: "Socks are by far, in my opinion, one of the most understated fundamentals of a man's wardrobe! As I sit in crowds of highly dressed men, not necessarily over-the-top but classic men, their socks are the silent topic that separates the junior executives from the partners."

  • White socks are only worn during sports.
  • Dressy shoes naturally require dressy socks. There is one basic rule: The dressier the situation, the darker the stockings or socks.
  • Match the colour with the trousers, not with the shoes. Black trousers with black socks, and we do the same with, for example, blue or grey. White trousers, white socks (no socks). When in doubt, always choose the darkest variant.
  • Socks or stockings that are coordinated with the colour of the trousers will make your outfit look more flowing. But, on the other hand, if they contrast, they can break up an otherwise dull look.
  • So a secondary colour is sometimes a good or nice alternative: matched with the colour of the tie, the pocket square or the shirt, for example. If you are wearing a green tie, a green accent in the socks can spice up your look. Anything above the waist, or belt is ok.
  • Never roll up your socks, or beat them. It is typical of the 80s and a real example of bad taste. It even looks strange.
    If your socks or stockings are pulled up properly, as they should be, they will give you a sleek beautiful line, even with the tightest of trousers.
  • Never wear socks or stockings with shorts or Bermuda shorts. There is not much more to be said about this. You don't want to look like a example of bad taste.
  • Renew your socks and stockings regularly: Every 6 months is recommended. They have a hard life and need to be worn a lot. They should be and remain soft and supple.
  • No socks in bed! You would not appreciate it if your partner did this either. We can safely say that it is quite repulsive.
  • Basic rule: When wearing a suit and sitting down, possibly with your legs crossed, one should never see your bare leg between your stockings or socks and the trousers.
  • The length of dress stockings: up to or over the calf.
  • To make sure you buy good quality: Look for a flat hem at the end near the toes.

But who am I to say that you should follow the rules? After all, aren't rules there to be broken? Follow your own rules.
Create your own style. It can be fun to experiment and add some Sprezzatura to your appearance.
Remember, every sock, every stocking has its occasion!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

First, we must ask ourselves why many, if not most, men avoid wearing pink-coloured garments?

Many men - mostly those with too much macho content - consider pink a feminine colour. And precisely because of this unfortunate stereotype, many refuse to wear this colour. One of the many reasons is that it gives them a certain degree of insecurity. They feel that the colour determines their sexual orientation or degree of masculinity.

Which, of course, is completely out of the blue. Are you a macho or a wimp? Let's go back in history for a moment.
Until the mid-20th century, pink was preferred for boys because of its brightness and blue for girls because of its association with the Virgin Mary.

Before the 1950s, the pink colour even exuded a certain 'masculine strength'. There were even 'khaki' trousers in the army that were nicknamed 'pinks' because of the pink glow they sometimes had. Nevertheless, today we have to conclude that there is still a strong female connotation attached to it, and this for both women and men.

And even longer ago the soldiers wore, at the Battle of Waterloored coats. This was done very deliberately, because a wounded or dead person's blood would not scare the 'mates'. Later this evolved into pink.

Secondly, we look at why and how men can wear pink.
The colour has a lot of potential for combining. It is flamboyant and adds a certain 'lightness' to your outfit. The colour pink is a sublime addition to, for example, brown, khaki, a monochrome outfit, and the darker versions of blue.

Pink is a colour that can be worn both formally and casually. Think for example of a black or grey suit that can be brightened up with a fresh shirt colour. Pink does this with ease! It is classic and gives a gentleman a certain elegance. Think of a man of the world strolling around Mayfair, possibly with a ciara in his hand, ready to take over the world. Just as easily, this scene can be set on the Chapms Elysées or on Fifth Avenue.

Third: How to wear a pink shirt, and how to combine?

As pink can be a rather bright, even cheeky colour, it is best combined with the darker tones. However, the colour is versatile: it goes well with both black and grey. Dark grey, I mean. For me, blue is the colour of choice.

Navy: Just plain with a dark blue suit. The colours complement each other perfectly. That said, with a blue blazer too! And with this, a pair of pink flannel trousers, or if you are more of a preppy type, a nice chino or khaki.

Combine with jeans and brown loafers. Or even white jeans in summer and black loafers? Also, never forget to match your belt with your shoes.

Seasonally, pink feels best in spring and summer! The sunlight really makes the colour stand out.

Tips & Facts:

  • Try to avoid pink t-shirts or jumpers.
  • Psychological research has shown that the colour pink has a calming effect on other people. It relaxes them.
  • Dark or tanned skin goes better with the pastel varieties.
  • The pink polo is eternally preppy. An Ivy-League look.
  • If you still think it would be too feminine in its look, feel free to combine it with masculine accessories such as braces, a waistcoat, or even Better, a cardigan. Keep your accessories to a minimum though, as pink is a statement anyway. Less is more in this case!
  • It shows that you are no longer a child who needs to wear boys' clothes. The colour does require a certain shape, or let's say level of self-confidence. And having said that, it does not define anyone's sexuality. It is best to consider this belief as underdeveloped.
  • The colour also has the property of demanding female attention, which has also been scientifically proven. Many ladies feel that a man who wears pink is more self-confident, sensitive and in touch with his inner self and emotions. These qualities are generally highly appreciated by women.
  • Wearing pink makes you stand out, and makes you more powerful A 2012 study commissioned by Cotton USAhas revealed some surprising facts, showing that men who wear pink earn, on average, $1,200 more on a yearly basis. These men also impress female colleagues more, and they perform with more self-confidence. If you get lost in a crowd, your friends or family can easily find you. After all, you are that sensitive man surrounded by ladies.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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