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The controversy of the colour pink.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

First, we must ask ourselves why many, if not most, men avoid wearing pink-coloured garments?

Many men - mostly those with too much macho content - consider pink a feminine colour. And precisely because of this unfortunate stereotype, many refuse to wear this colour. One of the many reasons is that it gives them a certain degree of insecurity. They feel that the colour determines their sexual orientation or degree of masculinity.

Which, of course, is completely out of the blue. Are you a macho or a wimp? Let's go back in history for a moment.
Until the mid-20th century, pink was preferred for boys because of its brightness and blue for girls because of its association with the Virgin Mary.

Before the 1950s, the pink colour even exuded a certain 'masculine strength'. There were even 'khaki' trousers in the army that were nicknamed 'pinks' because of the pink glow they sometimes had. Nevertheless, today we have to conclude that there is still a strong female connotation attached to it, and this for both women and men.

And even longer ago the soldiers wore, at the Battle of Waterloored coats. This was done very deliberately, because a wounded or dead person's blood would not scare the 'mates'. Later this evolved into pink.

Secondly, we look at why and how men can wear pink.
The colour has a lot of potential for combining. It is flamboyant and adds a certain 'lightness' to your outfit. The colour pink is a sublime addition to, for example, brown, khaki, a monochrome outfit, and the darker versions of blue.

Pink is a colour that can be worn both formally and casually. Think for example of a black or grey suit that can be brightened up with a fresh shirt colour. Pink does this with ease! It is classic and gives a gentleman a certain elegance. Think of a man of the world strolling around Mayfair, possibly with a ciara in his hand, ready to take over the world. Just as easily, this scene can be set on the Chapms Elysées or on Fifth Avenue.

Third: How to wear a pink shirt, and how to combine?

As pink can be a rather bright, even cheeky colour, it is best combined with the darker tones. However, the colour is versatile: it goes well with both black and grey. Dark grey, I mean. For me, blue is the colour of choice.

Navy: Just plain with a dark blue suit. The colours complement each other perfectly. That said, with a blue blazer too! And with this, a pair of pink flannel trousers, or if you are more of a preppy type, a nice chino or khaki.

Combine with jeans and brown loafers. Or even white jeans in summer and black loafers? Also, never forget to match your belt with your shoes.

Seasonally, pink feels best in spring and summer! The sunlight really makes the colour stand out.

Tips & Facts:

  • Try to avoid pink t-shirts or jumpers.
  • Psychological research has shown that the colour pink has a calming effect on other people. It relaxes them.
  • Dark or tanned skin goes better with the pastel varieties.
  • The pink polo is eternally preppy. An Ivy-League look.
  • If you still think it would be too feminine in its look, feel free to combine it with masculine accessories such as braces, a waistcoat, or even Better, a cardigan. Keep your accessories to a minimum though, as pink is a statement anyway. Less is more in this case!
  • It shows that you are no longer a child who needs to wear boys' clothes. The colour does require a certain shape, or let's say level of self-confidence. And having said that, it does not define anyone's sexuality. It is best to consider this belief as underdeveloped.
  • The colour also has the property of demanding female attention, which has also been scientifically proven. Many ladies feel that a man who wears pink is more self-confident, sensitive and in touch with his inner self and emotions. These qualities are generally highly appreciated by women.
  • Wearing pink makes you stand out, and makes you more powerful A 2012 study commissioned by Cotton USAhas revealed some surprising facts, showing that men who wear pink earn, on average, $1,200 more on a yearly basis. These men also impress female colleagues more, and they perform with more self-confidence. If you get lost in a crowd, your friends or family can easily find you. After all, you are that sensitive man surrounded by ladies.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The Sidecar, the classic among cocktails!

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Harry's New York Bar, Paris.
As you may have gathered, I am a big fan of iconic things. Because, admittedly, they are always iconic for a reason! I drank my first Sidecar during my student days in 'Harry's Bar New Yorkwhen I lived and studied in Switzerland, at the famous 'Montreux Palace Hotel' in Montreux. And since the holidays are upon us again, a better cocktail may be poured, in these times of pre-made mixers, and other pre-made colourful fantasies. Gentlemen, you just can't go wrong with the following motto: 'Stick to the Classics'.

The Ritz Hotel in Paris claims the origin of this cocktail.
The first recipes for making the Sidecar appeared as early as 1922, in Harry MacElhone's 'Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails' and in Robert Vermeire's 'Cocktails and How to Mix Them'. It is also one of the six basic drinks listed in David A. Embury's 'The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1948)'. The tasty drink is most closely related to the older cognac 'Crusta', although it does differ in presentation, size and ingredients.

Buck's Club, London.
In the early editions of MacElhone's book, he quotes Pat MacGarry as the inventor. The popular bartender in Buck's Club, London. However, in later editions he mentions himself. Vermeire says that the cocktail was very popular in France and that it was first introduced in London by MacGarry, the celebrated bartender. Embury, on the other hand, gives credit for the invention to an American army captain in Paris during the First World War. He named the cocktail after the fast sidecar motorbike he was riding at the time!

By the way, speaking of Paris. When I lived there, I couldn't help but visit 'Harry's New York BarOf course. And you can guess it, I drank my Sidecars in this authentic bar too.

As complicated as it may look in the mixology canon, it deceives you in its simplicity. Actually, it is easy to make like your morning cup of coffee! With the simple combination of just three ingredients and a few ice cubes to spice it up, a perfect taste and aroma match is achieved. Although it is very simple in structure, it is certainly complex enough to satisfy the most spoilt taste buds.

If you feel like it, you can experiment with the proportions. The oldest recipes talk about the proportional, simple mix of the 3 ingredients, but for many this is a bit boring. Several guides and recipe books mention a 2:1:1 ratio of Cognac, lemon juice and Cointreau. I, however, prefer to add a little more Cointreau (triple sec) than lemon to keep a balance that is acceptable to me. But feel free to taste and test your own proportions.

Belroy's Bijou, Antwerp.
To be sure, I made an appointment with one of the best cocktail bars in Antwerp, Belroy's Bijouwhere a passionate top mixologist, Mr. Dieter Van Roy, explained to me, with the right moves, how they make a more than good Sadecar.

 

Ingredients:

  • Cognac: 4cl
  • Cointreau: 1 cl
  • Lemon / Lemon: 3 cl
  • Sugar syrup: 2 cl (sugar to be dissolved in water in proportion: 1:1)

With expert flair, the snarled Dieter mixes for me a delicious Sidecar, with a smooth swing.

How do we do it?
Combine the Cognac or brandy, the Cointreau, and the lime juice in a cocktail shaker, together with the sugar syrup, and fill well with ice cubes. No ice flakes otherwise it will dilute too much. Shake vigorously for at least 10 seconds, and pour through a strainer. Garnish the glass with a slice of orange or lime peel if you wish to brighten it up.
Easy peasy as they say, or in French: 'Simple comme bonjour'.

Optional:
Prepare the cocktail glass by making a slit in a lime slice and going over the edge of the glass with it. Then turn the glass over and rub the rim with very fine sugar to make a superfine sugar rim stick to the glass. Chill the glass until you need it to serve the cocktail. The first mention of this sugar rim on a Sidecar is in 1934, in three books: 'Burke's Complete Cocktail & Drinking Recipes', 'Gordon's Cocktail & Food Recipes' and in 'Drinks As They Are Mixed' (a revised reprint of Paul E. Lowe's 1904 book).

Gentlemen......cheers !

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy

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The history of the Trench Coat.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The Iconic Trench Coat: The Classic Amongst Raincoats

Autumn, so we have rain and cold wind. This requires appropriate clothing. So the mackintosh comes out again!
The most classic is of course the iconic Trench Coat. Of military origin, it is always waterproof, usually with buttons and a belt made of the same material. It is a very detailed garment: many pockets and buttons, flaps and, especially in the past, epaulettes.

Origin:

The word 'trench' indicates the military origin, and comes from the 'trenches' of World War I. In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany.
In this global military conflict, British, French and American troops fought together against Germany. In the autumn of 1914, the battle came to a standstill in a protracted trench warfare. Fighters from both sides were stuck for days on end in muddy foxholes, which invariably flooded during the frequent heavy rainfall. The army uniforms of the time were usually not designed for such conditions. The thick British woolen overcoats, in particular, became soaked almost immediately, causing thousands of soldiers, including a good number of officers, to succumb to disease. With winter approaching, the British army command therefore urgently sought an alternative winter coat, which they eventually found in the trench coat.

Who is the inventor?

Two British companies claim to have invented this jacket. Aquascutum claims to have introduced this trench coat to help British officers get a functional jacket. But according to their major competitor Burberry However, the first trench coat was designed in 1914 by Thomas Burberry, the then 80-year-old founder of the company. Both companies produced trench coats for the British army during the war, but we will probably never know which of them had the first idea. Aquascutum's claim to fame dates back to the 1850s. However, Thomas Burberry, the inventor of gabardine, submitted a design of the new officer's coat to the British Ministry of Defence in 1901.

In any case, it was an instant success! The waterproof gabardine fabric offered perfect protection from the rain, as did the loose flap at the back. On top of that, the jacket came up to the knees, which made it long enough to keep the upper legs warm, but too short to drag through the mud. Officers could stow their gear in the large spacious pockets and sweat smell could escape through the vents.

Unfortunately, the trench coat was not free. Military personnel who wanted to wear it had to pay for it out of their own pockets. A trench coat cost about 3 to 4 pounds, which for an ordinary soldier was the equivalent of 3 to 4 months' pay. The result? The trench coat became a status symbol among the British officers. This even went so far that the army commanders at one point forbade anyone below the rank of sergeant major to wear the coat. Sad, but true. However, this had the unintended effect of greatly increasing the mortality rate among British officers, as the German snipers could now more easily pick them off.

Those same years were also the heyday of the great expeditions. One of the first to try gabardine was the British explorer Ernest Shackleton. Ernest Shackletonwho, in 1914, secretly crashed his ship into the crushing ice in Antarctica but managed to survive thanks to Burberry's indestructible fabric. And, of course, incredible perseverance.

So what is a trench coat really?

The trench coat is obviously a mackintosh made of gabardine, but leather or poplin are also sometimes used. It usually has a removable insulating lining and the classic models range in length from calf height to just above the knee.
Traditionally, it has a double row of ten buttons, wide lapels and a belt around the waist and sleeve ends. There are often flaps on the shoulders that can be closed with buttons. The classic colour for a trench coat is khaki.

During the First World War, the well known typical shoulder flaps and straps were added to the design of the trench coat. The shoulder flaps were used to attach epaulettes and other rank insignia; the belts, according to legend, were used to attach hand grenades. This sounds very tough and masculine, but in reality, swords and maps were simply attached to them.

Evolution

During the Second World Wars, different variants appeared. Usually shorter for more freedom of movement. We won't go into that now, but we can say that the trench coat was here to stay. Nowadays, it graces the streets of both men and women. Not only veterans, but also Hollywood ensured the fame and status and later spread worldwide.

Several famous actors wore this jacket in classic films, such as Humphrey Bogart in 'Casablanca' and Marlene Dietrich in 'A Foreign Affair'. The fact that gangsters, detectives and femmes fatales appeared on the big screen in trench coats made the garment even more attractive to the general public. The trench coat's reputation was definitively established.

Other fictional heroes also contributed: Inspector Columbo, Dick Tracy, Neo from The Matrix and Peter Sellers' Inspector Jacques Clouseau. Michael Caine in Get Carter, Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy and Alain Delon in Le Samouraï. They usually wear a Fedora or, in extremely cold weather, an Ushanka.

What is Gabardine anyway, you may ask?

Gabardine is a fabric in a steep twill weave. Traditionally, the fabric is made of wool. Mixes of cotton, artificial fibre and wool, as well as fully synthetic variants, are also common. Gabardine is impregnated with waterproofing agents, is durable and crease-resistant. Because of these properties, it is used for suits and uniforms, but especially for mackintoshes. The origin of the fabric is not entirely clear. British fashion designer Thomas Burberry is said to have invented it in 1879 as a mixture of wool and cotton, but according to other sources, the name is derived from the Parisian fashion house Gabartin.
On the right side of the fabric, gabardine has more warp threads than weft threads. There are often twice as many warp threads as weft threads. The warp thread usually passes through two weft threads before passing under one or two weft threads. This compact weave makes gabardine water-repellent and crease-resistant. Like any twill weave, gabardine has characteristic diagonal lines. These are clearly visible, close together and slightly raised. The angle of the diagonals is 45 or 63 degrees. Men's fashion more often uses variants with the larger angle. Women's fashion predominantly uses the smaller angle.

 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

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The Regimental Tie or Striped Tie

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The Regimental or Striped Tie

Also called rep tie or club tie. There is a clear difference between English and American stripes, namely the direction. You may wonder why and how this is so. Well, we are happy to explain it to you.

The well-known British 'regimental tie' has the stripes at an angle from high left, but down right. As they say over the pond: 'from the heart'. It is also the direction of the British and international military salute. So it originated at the turn of the 20th century. More specifically, 'from heart to sword', as a nod to the origins of combat, war. For those who still wonder where the word 'Regimental' comes from? The colours and patterns of the ties and ribbons have been derived from uniforms, flags and coats of arms since the First World War. And thus also regiments. The regimental tie is also known as the 'club tie'. In this way, the wearer communicates his membership of a gentleman's club.

Royal influence

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Prince of Wales, before briefly becoming King, visited America on an official state visit.
Without realising it himself, he changed the customs of how and by whom the striped ties were worn.
Like many veterans, he wore his regimental tie, striped blue and red from the Grenadier Guards.
The Americans, fascinated by his style and dress, were particularly fascinated by that tie, which was then much discussed in the press.
in the press. After his visit, they became immensely popular.

The Democratisation of an Icon

Brooks Brothers thought that this style should be available to everyone. To Americanise it, as it were.
They took away the meaning of the tie by making the stripes the opposite way round: Namely from right to left!
This act of fashionRebellion was the birth of a style icon.

Since then, the striped tie has been the favourite of everyone from the US President to pop stars.
The fans are as diverse as the variations of the tie itself. Ranging from the military, to businessmen, to the famous Ivy-League universities.

Hence, American ties are in the opposite direction. A slightly more playful explanation is that the English ties follow the direction of the face, while the American ones point to the crotch.

After schools and 'social clubs' followed this trend, the look also became very fashionable and popular among ordinary citizens. Wearing accessories in certain colours became a way of exuding social status. In this way, this beautiful classic was also introduced into the sartorial world, without being in conflict with certain traditions.

Many brands, ranging from Brooks Brothers to Ralph Laurendiscovered a certain sophistication and elegance that goes with the striped tie. It is now a classic in the American wardrobe among prepsters and classic style seekers.

Das-Etiquette

So both the colours of the stripes and the direction may have a meaning. Membership of a military regiment, an exclusive club, or a prestigious university such as Oxford, Cambridge or Harvard. It provides a clear identity for these groups. It must be said that it is not appreciated if you wear a tie with meaning and you are not or were not a member of this group. You have no right to it and some people even take offence.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

 

 

 

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The overcoat in will variations

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Overcoats come in a variety of styles and models.
Most people just call it an overcoat, or in English; a Chesterfield or Crombie. They not only offer the wearer adequate protection from the elements, but also make you look good. However, there are differences. The fact is that the overcoat conveys a lot about the wearer. What is he wearing underneath?
Which model do you need? Which style suits you best? What fabric have you chosen? Personally, I wear several. With a centre placket, double-breasted, navy-blue, beige/camel and grey checkered. The materials range from a firm hard wool to a soft wool-cashmere blend, to even a full cashmere one. So let's take a closer look at the overcoat.

THE 'CROMBIE'

J & J Crombie Ltd. Is a British clothing manufacturer. They make high-end clothing and accessories under the Crombie name.
They are best known for their luxury overcoats. So much so that other brands use the name Crombie to refer to their own product line made in the same style: A ¾ overcoat, usually in wool. However, Crombie is known to be taking legal action against these practices and the generic use of their name.

Immediately recognisable is the Retro jacket: the most iconic of all time, and exclusively available at Crombie. The Retro takes its inspiration from the first men's overcoats and the stylish English topcoats, with an exceptional eye for detail. In a classic cut, with single overlap closure, it exudes tradition and elegant British timelessness.

Followers of this classic include Sir Winston Churchill, The Beatles, and Cary Grant. Available in a rich navy blue, or strong black, each jacket is carefully lined in red, and has a distinctive collar in black velvet. Classic and multifunctional, this Crombie icon, and therefore this style, is a favourite with heads of state and the classic movie stars of yesteryear.

THE 'CHESTERFIELD

The Chesterfield is a long, overcoat named after Sir George Stanhope, the 6e Earl of Chesterfield, and leader of British fashion in the 1830s and 1840s.
The Chesterfield appeared around 1840, along with the so-called "lounge suit", as an alternative to
the high-cut overcoats such as the frock overcoat, which was heavily fitted with horizontal seams and stitching. The Chesterfield has no horizontal seams or boning, but can still be elegantly shaped with side seams or figure seams.

It has a single or double-breasted fastening, and was popular in a variety of fabrics, typically the heavier tweed, in coal-grey or dark blue, and even the camel-coloured classic. It is often fitted with a velvet collar. These variants make it very multifunctional, such that it can be worn with a suit in the city, or even semi-formal, up to even sportier.

It was a trend-setter for stylish men in the 1920s to 1960s, and has been a classic for both men and women ever since.

THE COVERT COAT

The covert coat was originally a short overcoat worn while hunting. Today, it is sold as a regular overcoat. However, it was designed in the late 19the century to wear while riding. That is why the jacket always has a high slit in the back. The Covert fabric from which the jacket is made, is a sturdy Tweed, named after the covered area, the area where a lot of game was found, and thus served as the starting point of a hunting party.
The covert coat is always single-breasted, middle closure so, lapels with notch, pockets with flaps. A ticket-pocket is optional. Typical is the stitching: 4 or 5 lines at the cuffs of the sleeves, and at the bottom of the jacket, on the hem. The collar is made of either covert fabric or rich velvet. The traditional colour varies from a light greenish beige, to an indulgent shade of green, but variants in rice and dark blue are equally common.

Variations were worn by George VI and Edward VIII, but equally by both Jason Statham and Stephen Graham in the 2000 crime comedy film Snatch. The covert coat received much media attention during the 2015 UK election, when it was worn by UKIP party leader Mr Nigel Farage

THE 'POLO COAT'

The polo coat, also known as the camel overcoat, was originally worn by polo players in England.
It is always available from Ralph Lauren, but not designed by him.
The polo coat was originally a coat with a belt. Eventually, it evolved into a double-breasted model with a button closure.
Before the 1st World War, polo arrived in the US and when players wore their jackets after matches, the polo coat was adopted by spectators and fashion leaders alike. In 1926, this camel-hair coat became especially popular among students at Princeton and Yale, and a few seasons later it had completely conquered the United States. By the end of the 1920s, almost every Ivy League undergrad had a Chesterfield and Polo Coat wardrobe.
Originally in camel hair, later a mixture with sheep's wool, because of its durability.
The terms "polo-coat" and "camel-coat" are therefore synonymous.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy

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The Smoking: to Watch or not to Watch? 

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Tuxedo - Black Tie - Smoking ....... Are you going to wear a watch? Or not wearing one? Will you or will you not? And why?
Soon the holidays will arrive, and you should think about it anyway.
This is a question I get asked on a regular basis. Therefore, in order to clear up the confusion, and to separate assumptions from facts...
Let's look at the arguments! Because in the past, it really wasn't possible. And in some environments, it still isn't possible.

CONTRAs:

  • It does not look like it! Since the dinner jacket or tuxedo is minimalist in style. Sleek and elegant, but sober. A watch takes the balance out of it, and makes the whole less stylish.
  • Etiquette! Perhaps the most important argument! A wristwatch can send the signal to the host of the exclusive event you are attending that, no matter how much effort he or she puts into organising it, you are still losing track of time. This may be seen as disrespectful. Perhaps you have somewhere else to go? All your attention should go to the host or hostess, and the guests.
  • You don't need a watch at all, as everyone has a smartphone nowadays anyway.

PROs:

  • Well, sometimes you just want to know what time it is.
  • You have a very beautiful watch and want to wear it.
  • A wristwatch is still better than looking at your smartphone. It is simply less conspicuous to look discreetly at your wrist than to take your smartphone out of your pocket, lift the screen and look at the time display.
  • Even contemporary style icons wear a watch on the red carpet. Not that this should be considered a true reference, but it does say something about today's prevailing standards.
  • Mr. Alan Flusser, author of many iconic books and style manuals, wrote about which watch, and how to wear it with a dinner jacket. And his books are internationally regarded as the manuals of classic style and class.

However:

Have you ever Fred Astaire in his tuxedo wearing a wristwatch? I don't think so.
And I challenge you all to look more stylish than he ever did! Mr. B. James Bond,
Mr. 007, regarded by many, if not the majority, as an example of contemporary style and class, always wears a wristwatch. Even in combination with a dinner jacket. He even takes it a step further, as it is usually a fairly sturdy and heavy sports watch.
Oh well, as long as it's cinematic. When I myself attend an event, where dinner jacket or dinner jacket is desired or required, I can't help but notice that the rule of 'no watch with dinner jacket', can be considered quite dated. What you do yourself, you can of course distinguish. What is appropriate...'.

So, what now?

So now that we have established what is acceptable and what is not, more or less, it does not mean that we can just do whatever we want. If you still want to come across as stylish and classy, there are still rules that need to be followed. Or let's call it 'friendly advice'.
As a gentleman, or modern-day gentleman, we do follow these rules.....:

  • Basic rule: If you have decided to wear a wristwatch, choose as formal a model as possible. If you are going to wear it to the beach or for mountain biking, for example, then definitely don't wear it at night!
  • Aesthetics: Roman numerals in place of numbers are increasingly elegant and clearly more formal. The dial is simple, elegant, and not too conspicuous. And you certainly don't need chronographs, day-dates or other complicated world timers. On the other hand, you can still get away with a nice moon-phase display or complication.
  • Always wear the wristwatch on the left wrist. In this way, it will not be visible when you greet someone and shake hands.
    Your sleeve and cuff will creep up.
  • Ideally, a simple model. The smaller and less conspicuous it is, the more appropriate.
  • If you really need to know the time, do it as inconspicuously as possible. Go to the toilets, or retreat to an empty hall or corridor, or go outside for a moment if you have the chance.
  • Always do the cuff test first. Make sure the watch is not so big that it sits uncomfortably under the sleeve. Make sure it is worn as unnoticeably as possible.
  • Make sure your watch has no audible alarms: no beeping or ringing. Let's not attract attention.
    Especially not during a dinner, theatre performance or concert.
  • Let's avoid watches that glow in the dark. This can be considered distracting. And can be very distracting in the theatre, for example.
  • Check the time as little as possible, and certainly not during a conversation. Then your watch is not worthy of a glance, out of respect for your conversation partner.
  • If you do decide to wear a wristwatch, it should match your cufflinks and any shirt studs. Yellow gold with yellow gold, silver with silver, rose gold with rose gold. Absolutely no combinations or fantasies are allowed. We also adapt to the rings you wear, and/or the glasses frame even.
  • If possible, wear a pocket watch, especially in the case of a skirt suit. It is considered a stylish accessory here.
  • The watch strap is preferably black. Certainly not coloured, striking or flashy. However, with a dark blue tuxedo, a dark blue strap is also possible.
  • Keep the strap buckle as simple as possible.
  • If it looks good, it is good. I do take into account your good taste and at least a basic knowledge of vestimentary class.

Conclusion:   

Yes, it is possible nowadays, especially if you use your common sense.
However, if you are very traditional,.... Then don't wear a wristwatch.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel, The Belgian Dandy

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How to dress and behave on a sailing yacht.

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

Kennedy Masonic Store Dutch RegaliaThe nautical refers to the sea and ships or boats. There is the romantic image that is reflected in a navy blazer with shiny brass or gold buttons, a snow-white sailor's uniform, a yellow sou'wester, or the classic dark blue or striped sailor's jumper from Normandy, with buttons on the shoulder .... The writing can be a bit more light-hearted, and as we are still in the middle of a beautiful Indian summer, the opportunity may still present itself to go sailing or be invited for a nice trip or afternoon on the water.


I would therefore like to give you some sartorial tips, for the classic traditional on the water, and also some fun 'facts'.
Well, nowadays anything goes, even on the water, but as a supporter of the classic and stylish ... well, you get my drift.

First of all, we should state that there is a big difference between 'going sailing' (yachting) and 'going on a cruise' (cruising). Going on a cruise is actually the same as going to a hotel. The only difference is that you do so on a cruise ship, which is in fact just a floating hotel. So going sailing or cruising is indeed where the difference lies. And where certain rules have to be followed.
Rules that have a clear practical reason, and others that are more traditional in origin.
In any case, if you are a gentleman, you should follow them.


The Basic Rules:

  • Of course you should dress nautically (how original!)
  • You always wear shoes with white soles. Preferably the leather version of the 'deck-shoes' like Sebago or Sperry Topsiders. The deck of the boat, usually in teak, does not like the stripes or smudges caused by dark soles. And the captain or owner of the yacht certainly does not! If you do not have shoes with white soles, go barefoot.
  • Never wear red trousers on board. This privelge is traditionally reserved for those who have crossed the Atlantic.
    By boat. And we don't mean a cruise ship!

What is suggested:

  • Johnny Walker Jude Law Masonic shop dutch regaliaWhite or beige / écru trousers, or depending on the weather, shorts (chino or khaki).
  • Navy blue blazer or cardigan.
  • Go for a preppy look. Preppy takes a lot of inspiration from the nautical lifestyle.
  • Wear a classic polo shirt.
  • Or, slightly dressier, a snow-white shirt.
  • Wear a brown leather belt. It compliments the white of your outfit perfectly.
  • Always bring a jumper or windbreaker. After all, it can be chilly or windy on the water.
  • Don't forget the sunscreen. The reflection of the sun's rays on the water intensifies the effect.
  • Your shoes should not only have a white sole, they should also have a firm grip on the (wet) deck.
  • Socks? That depends on your style. But never, never, never even white ones in sandals!
  • Red is a perfect and beautiful colour for your sailing jacket or wind-breaker!

Accessories & How to complete your Nautical look:
A classic pair of pilot or sailing glasses will always give you a smooth look. A Ray-Ban Wayfarer is a stylish alternative. And if you really want to go for style, like the two gentlemen in the photo, then you should buy a classic pair of sailing glasses. Persol
Always make sure you have good lenses, because you are on the water and there is a lot of reflection.

  • A nice leather belt is important because it will always be very visible.
  • A cap to protect you from the sun, splashing (salt) water, wind and rain.
  • A nice heavy (waterproof) watch completes the overall look.
  • You can drape your beautiful jumper or pullover over the shoulders for a relaxing effect.
  • If you prefer something more dressy, go for a double-breasted version of the navy blazer.
  • A shirt in light jeans fabric (Chambray).
  • Everything with a coat of arms, preferably that of yourself, a club, or the yacht club to which you belong.
  • In short, everything in white, red, navy and/or striped. But never more than 2 colours combined if you opt for stripes.

How to behave / Superstition vs. tradition:

  • JFK nautical Masonic shop dutch regaliaAs mentioned before, red trousers only if you have crossed 'the big pond'.
  • Do not wear green on board. That is a country colour.
  • There is no whistling (lips). Cfr. "Whistling a storm".
  • Do not wear a bandana. However cool it may seem, you are not a pirate!
  • Bananas are not allowed on board either: First, they go bad too quickly, but legend has it that during the height of Spanish rule, and trade with the Caribbean in the 1700s, most of the lost ships carried bananas. Coincidence or not?
  • When "boarding", always do this with the right foot first.
  • No female crew (very old-fashioned, and outdated of course). Originally it was thought that they would distract the crew too much. I wonder what has changed.
  • No rabbits on board. The word is not even pronounced!
  • The senior officer, or captain, is the first to enter the sloop, or tender. But also the first to leave it. LIFO (Last In, First Out)
  • No pigs will come on board.
  • Never, ever rename a boat or a ship. If it is really necessary, keep the old name somewhere on board. If the name has been changed, do not forget to put a small coin in the deepest part of the hull. Never forget this!
  • Never leave your home port on a Friday.
  • Do not do this on a Thursday either. Thursday' is Thor's day, the god of thunder and storm.
  • On board, never cut your hair, clip your nails or trim your beard. It's a no-no, because it brings bad luck.
  • Avoid redheads! If you meet one or other of them just before you sign on or board, it will bring bad luck.
    But if you speak to them before they speak to you, it will bring good luck again.
  • "Rounding the two horns" of the ship means that you may sit at the table with both elbows during meals. (Many traditions and sayings come from the English, for England used to be the seafaring country).
  • Cats on board are highly debatable: Some say they bring bad luck, others happiness and prosperity.
  • The captain is always right. And even if the captain is not right, the captain is always right.

______________________________________________
It goes without sayingthat different rules apply for a modern fast sailing boat. After all, you have to 'work' on board. So: 'dress to the occasion'.
______________________________________________

Anecdote:
When inventor & sailor Paul A. Sperry was sailing on the Long Island Sound, he slipped on the deck of his boat and fell overboard. He was fortunately able to pull himself back on board, but this frightening experience drove him to develop a non-slip shoe sole. While experimenting with all kinds of possibilities for the non-slip shoes, he noticed the amazing ability of his dogs to walk down an icy hill without slipping. The grooves on the paws of his beloved four-legged friend, the cocker spaniel Prince, inspired him to cut into a natural rubber sole to create similar grooved patterns (slats). So the pattern of grooves or cracks on his dog's legs gave him the idea for a canvas upper shoe with a herringbone pattern of grooves on the sole.
So, now you know!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant for Scapa ,Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy







 

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The Flower Loop: Necessary or not?

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

The flower loop (flower-loop in traditional English tailoring) is the loop at the back of the left reverie of the collar. Handmade, and formerly used to put the stem of the flower behind. The flower that was put through the buttonhole. Usually a carnation and for special occasions a rose of course! The boutonniere, or 'buttonhole' to which many people refer, is not really used to fold up the lapel and close it when it's raining or windy, but is purely a floral decoration element. One inserts a single flower or 'stud'. 

By the way, if it is not a real passage, i.e. not functional, most people nowadays unfortunately pin the flower, or the 'corsage', with a safety pin or something similar. Especially with a dinner jacket or dinner jacket. Let's not think about the damage this causes to your collar. Especially if it is a silk one with a dinner jacket.

It also symbolises a certain tradition. And tradition, don't we love that as real gentlemen? Let's appreciate and cherish this little detail. And use it for its purpose, of course! 
Unfortunately, we are talking about a tradition that is becoming less and less common. Let's keep it simple and just wear a flower, a carnation, or maybe even a rose, on the lapel of your blazer when you go out to dinner for example. As an ode to your partner, or just for fun. People are guaranteed to look at you and even label you. Yes, as a dandy or playboy, when in fact you are just a gentleman. And also shows that you know your world. Because let's face it, can we only wear a flower to events?
At galas or weddings? It seems to me that a little elegance is always a bonus! 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits, writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform. He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy
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Why do men's jackets or vests close to the right?

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry Loge Benelux

I am sure of it. You may have wondered at one time or another... Why is it that men zip their jackets to the right (left over right) and women zip their jackets to the left (right over left)?
You are certainly not the only one asking yourself this question!
Well, the answer to both questions is actually quite simple and logical. Where does this custom come from?  

Let's start with the men. The jacket or vest, with the buttons on the right and the buttonholes on the left. This is how we have all known it 'since time immemorial'. If we look at it historically, we come to the fact that, in earlier times, the clothing for gentlemen of standing, especially the richer gentlemen, the real gentlemen, was provided to carry weapons as well, or even to hide them. 

Since most men would take or hold their sword, sword or sabre in their right hand, "it was therefore more convenient, and above all much quicker than their left hand, to open the jacket, waistcoat or overcoat." Yes, real men do not take risks! Real men also think functionally. Purely for convenience, for efficiency. So we must look at this as a purely practical measure.
Stylistically there is no reason for this. Sartorially insignificant even. 

You can also find good examples of this in the old portraits. All these 'hand-in-waistcoat' drawings and paintings that were so popular in the 19th century... One hand is always visible in an open section of the coat: right to left, so that one could quickly draw the weapon if necessary.
The sword or sabre, after all, was usually carried on the left side, and could therefore be drawn quickly with the right hand! 

If the jacket or vest were to close the other way round, the hilt of the sword, sabre or sword would get stuck in the clothing. Totally impractical, and when it came down to it, life determining! Every right-minded gentleman of standing therefore always demanded of his tailor that the fastening be carried out in this way, professionally.

This way of dressing, and reference to a male lifestyle, this tradition, was logically transferred to all the other (male) garments. Think especially of the shirts and possibly the waistcoats. It is that simple! It's elementary, my dear Watson'.

Why do the ladies wear it the other way round, you may ask? And this too has a very logical explanation. The reason is not because they are ladies, and ladies always have to or want to do everything differently. We can also state that weaponry and ladies do not really go together, so there is no reason for that either. 

The real ladies of the house used to be dressed by their servants, or the maid, or the nanny: And for a right-handed (most people are right-handed) person, it is simply more convenient to do it right over left from an inverted frontal perspective. Efficiency for the staff, then. Again, a practical elaboration, to make life easier for all parties involved. By the way, it is also easier for a right-handed gentleman to open the clothes that have been closed the way he has.

It has probably had little or no significant influence throughout our history, but I am sure that at some point a gentleman must have misjudged it, with his buckle and buttons on the 'wrong side', and was thus woefully late in drawing his sabre or sword, and defending himself properly.

So, in conclusion, we can say that this is why he was chopped in the middle, or something like that. Fortunately, we now all know the 'what', 'how' and 'why', but these are the initial reasons why designers maintain this tradition. You can also see the right-knot orientation as a direct relic from the warfare of the time:

"To ensure that an enemy's lance point would not slip between the plates," curators write in "The Art of Chivalry: European Arms and Armor from the Metropolitan Museum of Art"., "they overlapped from left to right, since it was a standard fighting practice that the left side, protected by the shield, was turned toward the enemy. Thus, men's jackets button left to right even to the present day."

Conclusion:
From a practical point of view, an efficient tradition was started. Totally useless nowadays, but the background of the whole story is actually quite fascinating. You see, even today, in contemporary fashion, certain traditions are still respected, although few will really know why. And as we all know and understand, many traditions are there to be honoured and respected. They were created for a reason. 

We can say that this is a trivial fact for many, not to say the vast majority, but it doesn't hurt to have it. And it can be a fun conversation starter in what would otherwise be a boring conversation!

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy
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Black tie' or 'White tie': What is the difference?

Thierry Stravers Gentleman Franc-Maçon gentleman blog Freemasons Dutch regalia maçonniek Freemasonry shop Loge Benelux rokkostuum white tie

Invitations come in....black tie, white tie, etc. For most, this can be confusing. So I'd like to explain the difference.
What are we going to wear when a certain dress code is required?

BLACK TIE
The "black tie" dress code, which is less formal than "white tie", is the most common form of formal evening wear. It is mostly worn for dinners, both public and private, parties and balls. It is also called "dinner jackets", "DJs", "dress for dinner" or, as in America, "tuxedos". 

What should one wear?

  • A dinner jacket in wool (Barathea) or ultra-fine herringbone, single or double-breasted, without a split at the back.
    The collar is pointed or shawl-style, and lined with silk. The buttons are lined with the same fabric as the jacket. Normally the jacket is black, but in very warm climates a white version is also worn.  
  • The trousers are black, in a normal standard width, and finished with a single silk band on the outside of the legs.
  • A snow-white shirt, with a collar preferably in Marcella, a somewhat stiffer type of cotton. Single or double cuffs. The front button fastening is not visible, unless the shirt has removable studs. The studs are usually black, but can also be decorative.
  • A black hand-knotted bow tie. Always avoid the pre-knotted version. It goes without saying that the bow tie should be in proportion to the stature of the wearer. 
  • Shoes: black and shiny. Preferably patent leather. Finish with black silk stockings.
    No socks! 
  • Cumberbands are not essential but can be worn. A cumberband, assorted with the bow tie is also possible, but you are treading on thin ice with it. 
  • A waistcoat can be worn, but is rarely seen. Under no circumstances is it combined with a cumberbund. Never! 
  • A white handkerchief or pocket square in the breast pocket of the jacket is a classic detail. 

This is the classic black tie, the tuxedo or dinner jacket. If you follow these basic rules, you will never go wrong!

Variations on the theme:
At 'dinner parties' with neighbours, friends or family and specifically at your own residence, you can wear a velvet tuxedo jacket, usually dark blue, bordeaux or bottle green. Combine this with a black bow tie, trimmed trousers, and possibly 'evening' or Albert slippers'. While this is acceptable for the host, it is not advisable for the guests. The slippers, often embroidered with a monogram or coat of arms, are more likely to be seen in the countryside than in the city. Unless otherwise stated, follow the rule 'when in Rome'. In some cases, national dress is also acceptable, such as the Indian Nehru coat or Arab dress.

WHITE TIE
The 'white tie dress code', also called 'full dress', 'evening dress' or, informally 'tails' or 'skirt'. It is the most formal dress code, and not much used nowadays. Before the second world war it was standard for gentlemen on evenings, as you can often see in movies or series. Within the Dutch Freemasonry, white tie with a black jacket is the standard. In Scandinavia white tie is also worn.

Nowadays, it is worn in the evening at certain royal ceremonies and balls, state banquets, etc.
It is also worn at some weddings (evening party), and also at charity balls.
Unfortunately, it is no longer seen in the theatre or at the opera.   

If you are expected to show up in white tie, this will always be mentioned on the invitation. Usually, however, one speaks of 'white or black tie', because one knows that not everyone has such an outfit available.

What should one wear?
The basis is the skirt coat, the tailcoat in black wool (barathea) or in an ultra-fine herringbone. The collar is pointed and lined with silk. The jacket, or vest, is always worn open. The js is shorter at the front than the English morning coat.

  • The black trousers are the same as for black tie, except that the trouser legs now have two bands on the outside. 
  • A snow-white Marcella (cotton piqué) shirt with a starched removable collar. Of course, the shirt here always has double cuffs. 
  • Cuff links and studs. The studs are plain white or decorative. 
  • A low-cut white waistcoat or gilet. This can and may be double or single-breasted.
  • A thin elegant bow, always hand-knotted.
  • If you don't have black patent leather shoes, make sure your shoes have a high-gloss finish.
    Always combine with black silk stockings. 
  • In winter, a black overcoat and white silk scarf can be worn 

Variations on the theme
As with black tie, there may be regional or national encores in, for example, Indian, Chinese or Arabic traditions.
This is always mentioned on the invitation.

Certain societies or clubs have their own evening dress coats (usually coloured skirt coats in red, blue or green, with collars that may have been modified. They are worn with a white bow tie and waistcoat, and sometimes with ordinary black tie trousers. Non-members wear in this case, because they are not entitled to the club-coat, just black tie. 

Decorations
If you are required to wear white tie and the event is of a royal nature, or a state affair, or a very formal event you will see on the invitation: 'Evening Dress, decorations'. At a charity ball, for example, this comes across as rather grotesque. 

When asked for decorations, knights and ladies, for example, wear only the decorations of the highest order instead of all the decorations they have. Ken-or decorations are always worn on the left side.
In some cases, a collarette can be worn around the neck, just below the bow.

In practice, ex-servicemen do know what and how to wear it, as do members of certain orders. If you are in doubt, you can always contact the palace or the secretary concerned. It also goes without saying that you should not appropriate any medals or decorations that you are not entitled to. 

White tie or dress suits can always be embellished with white gloves, a top hat, and possibly a sober walking stick! 

Notes:
White tie and black tie cannot be combined. If you appear in black tie at a white tie event, people may mistake you for the waiter. Conversely, if you appear at a black tie event in a dress suit, people may think you are the pianist! Always make sure that the garments fit well.

Whether black tie or white tie, with a little preparation you can show your entourage that your presence and class allow you to be in the better circles of society. 

Etiquette:
At a white tie event, behave more reserved than at a black tie event. If in doubt, behave like the other guests.
And as an extra reminder of how to tie that bow tie! 

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He writes for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here: http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel The Belgian Dandy

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