The Gurkha Trousers. Sooner or later, every gentleman comes across them, these somewhat unusual trousers. Some find them a bit odd looking, others odd but elegant. Nevertheless, it is a very stylish pair of trousers with a beautiful and rich history. There really is a story behind them.

The Gurkha trousers get their name from Nepal's elite troops, who bear the same name. They in turn took their name from their origins: the Nepalese kingdom of Gorkha. They owe their worldwide fame to a conflict with the then "East Indian Company" of the Great British Empire around 1814, where, at the fort of Nalapani, they fought fiercely against the British troops.

Gurkhas were the bravest of fighters, honourable, proud and feared. They did not surrender to the British supremacy but fought to the limit.
Even when their supplies ran out: ammunition, drinking water and food. However, they managed to escape and return to their own territory. The British troops were so impressed by this that, after the conflict, they drew up a treaty with these Gurkhas: "The Treaty of Sugauli", so that they could incorporate these bravest of the brave into their own troops. A treaty that is still valid today.

Today, the Gurkha recruitment programme is one of the most brutal and harsh in the world. For example, the recruits have to walk up a mountain for 5 km, with no less than 25 kg of sandbags attached to their heads. Just do it!

This new alliance between the two forces introduced the Gurkha here in the west, under the name of 'British Army Drill Trousers'.
The trousers are immediately recognisable by their distinctive fastening system: with fabric straps, incorporated into the trousers themselves.

Originally designed for warmer places, "Gurkhas" were generally available only as shorts and had a wide leg opening for optimum air flow. Typically worn high on the waist, these shorts exuded a touch of sophistication despite being made for the jungle battlefield. Perhaps most interesting is the reason for the belt system. The harsh conditions that soldiers endured during long periods of deployment in unfamiliar and humid areas often meant that they fluctuated in weight and had different waist sizes from week to week. The innovation of a highly adaptable and secure waistband system meant that shorts could be fastened or unfastened to fit, eliminating the need for new uniforms in such situations.Firstly, this was cheaper to manufacture, and secondly, fewer sizes of trousers had to be made. For the size, or rather the fit, was easily adjustable by the straps.
Most models have double band pleats, which increased comfort. The cumberband effect is elegant and slimming.

Modern contemporary versions and interpretations differ from the original, as they often have a simpler design.
Although originally offered by the British Army in a standard khaki twill, the Gurkha shorts quickly gained momentum as a fashion item in the 1980s, with even Banana Republic selling their own version of the military wear. Today, longer versions of the shorts have gained steam in the menswear community and are offered in a wide range of colours and materials.

And then there is the Gurkha short or bermuda, the shorter version. Like the trousers, no belt is needed here either.

So why choose the Gurkha now? There are a number of good reasons, but the main one is that it's a damn good pair of trousers, and one that's been underappreciated lately. It's strong, utilitarian and exceptionally comfortable, but the design alludes to fine tailoring throughout. That distinctive waistband has much in common with that of the traditional Oxford bag, and the construction gives it a distinctive, romantic silhouette. Visually striking too, the Gurkha doesn't look like any other design, which makes the ease with which it matches so many other garments all the more surprising.
These are trousers that you could comfortably wear on a plane, at the weekend or dressed up as part of a chic evening or cocktail ensemble.
It pairs elegantly with a tailored blazer, and yet would feel just as good with a hunting jacket, a boat jumper or even a T-shirt.

It is the inherent humility of the design - a trait famously shared with the Gurkhas themselves, that gives it this sense of versatility. The Gurkha trousers are designed to be practical. They are just exceptionally stylish on the go, and no matter how they are worn, they will always retain a touch of the fearless and adventurous spirit of their namesake.

Raphaël van den Poel, former fashion consultant of Scapa, Reinhard Frans and Atelier NA tailored suits,
writes our weekly blog on gentleman matters. He works for MYX Magazine, a Flemish luxury lifestyle platform.
He also has his own blog which you can read here:
http://belgiandandy.blogspot.com

Raphaël van den Poel
The Belgian Dandy